4. General Cost and Delivery Fees


JANUARY 15th, 2015 UPDATE: 

I am pleased to announce that we are now an ACCREDITED BUSINESS under the Nova Scotia Better Business Bureau as well as an ACTIVE MEMBER under the Firewood Vendor's Association of Nova Scotia also found under Access Nova Scotia.

Please check out what consumers say about my business and way I do things under the Nova Scotia Better Business Bureau under Customer/Consumer Reviews

WOOD ISSUE UPDATE May 28th, 2015. This noted below is very important to read. And once you do, take heed and DO THE MATH!

After receiving several calls this week about companies; and in general, wood sellers, some registered with the Registry of Firewood Vendors in Halifax and surrounding areas, and then after a conversation with Measurement Canada referencing the same, I am appalled at the response on the matter. Classified as being sold as a 'UNIT', this so called practice is way less than a proper cord by MEASUREMENT CANADA STANDARDS and Measurement Canada informs me that this is LEGAL, even though it is not a proper cord based on a STACKED CORD of 128 cubic feet. When I look at this, I see TWO STANDARDS here and sadly, YOU, THE CONSUMER, you are the ones being SCREWED ONCE MORE by the way of Government. We need CONTROLS - not people being allowed to change the rules or say, 'it is legal as long as the customer is told it is a UNIT or some other wording letting them know it is NOT a PROPER CORD, all in all, being sold 'LEGALLY LESS' than a cord and in the process of that, not using the words 'CORD or STACKED CORD' What the hell is wrong with people? And here I thought Measurement Canada wanted to make this an even playing field.

Having ONCE AGAIN checked Measurement Canada's site on Firewood, the following ARE NOT CONSIDERED AS LEGAL MEASUREMENTS pertaining to FIREWOOD. (Short Cord, Face Cord, Thrown Cord, Processed Cord (for which a UNIT CORD TRULY IS coming in between 85 to maybe 100 cubic feet), apartment cord and other amounts not listed and are TOTALLY ILLEGAL MEASUREMENTS in CANADA. So, my question is, why suddenly is Measurement Canada in Nova Scotia allowing this? In my books, it is allowing others a path to SCREW the consumer. So, be on your toes, always insist on a 'PROPER STACKED CORD AMOUNT, and above all, get your calculator out and do the math before ordering short cords as 'UNITS' or any other method of description. Remember, a guaranteed cord is 128 cubic feet. On a $300.00 cord, based on 128 cubic feet, that literally works out at $2.43 a cubic foot. On a 'UNIT'  sold, that becomes anywhere from $3.17 to $3.52 per cubic feet. So, WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF DOUBLE STANDARDS and GOVERNMENT. 


                                   #4 General Costs and Delivery Fees.

                 I Sell Tri-Maple Mix Hardwood cut & split @ $    .00 per cord.



In life there are NO easy solutions. We try counteracting this by making intelligent choices by, and based on the facts that we get proper and clear direction in our search for the proper answers. As for what is right, and for what is wrong for the Property Owner, it is he, or she, who should be the one that is in charge of making the correct decision in life as by what his, and her family needs are.

                                                                    Section #2 Summary

                                                    (1) What do you really know about firewood
                                                     (2) Utilizing your wood heat to the fullest
                                                                  (3) Fact and Not Fiction
                                     (4) Wood verses Oil, Electricity and Natural Gas Consumption
                                 (5) Updated Costs on Oil, Wood & BTU Ratings for December 2012
                                  (6) Addressing the Cost of Bio-Bricks as a Wood Stove alternative.

                                                     Delivery Fees and how are they calculated                                                          
                                                  (1) Determining the General Costs in wood
                                                        (2) Examining the Costs in Product
                                                   (3) Taking a look at low standard Firewood
                                                  (4) Questions about the wood you are buying
                                (5) Do I have to accept wood below proper and reasonable standards
                           (6) Are there flexible tables in the values contributing to the cost of firewood
                                                                     (7) What is knot piling
                                     (8) Six questions that you need to have and know the answers to
                                                   (9) The cost of freighting or delivery charges
                                     (10) Determining the actual costs of wood on cutting and delivery
                                              (11) General yard cutting and pick-up continued
                                                          (12) Special requests on deliveries
                                                   (13) Simple costs for cutting your own wood including
                                                    unprocessed firewood cost delivered, fuel used, rental,
                                                    saw maintenance, general repairs, general equipment rental 
                                                    or purchase fees & TIME to get the end result of 68% of a 
                                                          true cord when the wood is finally all cut and piled.

(1) WHAT DO YOU REALLY KNOW ABOUT WOOD ITSELF, WOOD HEAT and other points, such as cooking and heating with wood when the power is out? 
Isolating and comparing heating costs by type verses heat and energy with wood. 

Let me share some info with you and tell you my story.
With today's cost of electricity, oil, propane, and now....natural gas, (only because we don't have coal anymore) have you considered the alternative heat source being wood. For centuries people have used wood more than any other form of fuel. The question is; where and why did that change? Have we gotten spoiled or just plain lazy when it comes to working at home to save money? Have that many of us forgotten what doing a little work is, or as they say, (manual labour)  what working to save money is all about? Wood is not more work in the long run if you think about it and weigh it off against other heat sources. You just think it involves much more work than you are willing to endure. Why? It is because is it easier to run to the thermostat, press a button, set the heat unit for comfort, or worse yet, hot------and then settle back to watch TV? Remember, we are the carbon copy that our children learn from. 

You firmly clutch that remote in hand like it is the last moment of your life, as you become tremendously enthusiastic about the new adventures of Cops or Storage Wars.  Do you think that much in detail as you complain later on the heating bills?  Do you bitch and complain because everything keeps going up and the heating bill is literally going through the roof? Have you thought in advance about your failure to consider the fact that your hard earned dollars kick in with the furnace, propane, natural gas heating unit, or electricity at today's prices while your dollars do literally go up the chimney in smoke? Ahhhh, but the program in H.D.------wow----you are impressed. Hey------it is true that keeping up with the Jones clan or Smith clan is important to many. Wow----we sure wouldn't want them getting ahead of you. How do they heat their house? Is their money wasted with the wrong heating habits?

(2) Utilizing wood heat and your stove to the fullest:
I live up on top of the mountain. It is cool in the summer; always a breeze and nice. However; winter is a different ball game up here. Life here is sometimes complicated by N.S. Power with the power going off and on; and on many times a week and month without warning. Unfortunately, I have lost computers, TV's, VCR's and other devices by the inconveniences caused by their impeccable service. Having said that, one of the things I hate the most is forever setting the clocks on all of the devices, and especially the electric stove in the kitchen. Having one of the newer type of Electric Cooking stoves,------the darn thing will not function properly without the clock being set.

In winter we utilize the wood stoves when they are running for other things than heat. We have been without power here many times over the past years. Since White Juan and many of those times, I have found going back to the way it was, is neat. Hey-----it is kind of like camping out, but instead, in the house. On top of that, heating when the power is out really is not interrupted; other than the electric fans being shut down. I do have a generator; but with the price of fuel today, maintainence and all of the special fuse pannel connectors to prevent back-up or surge issues, I find WOOD being the super alternative. It was a blessing for the 5 days when the power was out here because of White Juan, and then the ice storm a few years ago  decided  to add frustration with their untimely visits. It was further neat, as well as fun, to have the opportunity to have both wood heat and the ability to have and make hot food with the wood stoves. I know------you are thinking, how stupid. However, we were warm, we were fed and we were fairly comfortable.

There is no special art to cooking on top of a wood stove. The neat thing though, one must BE ABLE TO KNOW HOW TO COOK. In my view, opening a package or can is not cooking. However; should that be your way of wasting money , so be it; and who am I to judge. Come the end of the day/week/month and year, it is all about what is in my pocket and not the amount of bills on my table that matters the most.  As for the cooking, having the correct utinsels, being always prepared, having the correct type of wood for cooking as opposed to directly heating, is thinking ahead. Not all of us do this because many of us are just too spoiled by the conveniences in life that we surround ourselves with.

Why is it when they advertise a big storm, the possibility of power interruptions and so on, the lineups at the tool shop, grocery stores, big box stores and gas pumps always seem to take priority over the fact that many of us SIMPLY DO NOT LOOK AHEAD, PLAN AHEAD AND ALLOW OURSELVES TO BE PREPARED? Is this human nature? Is it the fact that we just don't think about tomorrow? Remember this the next time the power goes out and you are not prepared. It only takes a few hours to prepare for being comfortable for the season if you will. Whereas reversed; for every hour without the conveniences will appear to be a lifetime.  

We rush about, curse and swear, blame someone else because we screwed up and on top of it all, never want to take the credit for our own stupidity. WHY? It is  quite simple. We think clearly that------'this will not happen to us.' To me, it is just like the story below. I wasn't prepared. I, like you, never used to think and plan ahead. I do now. And to be honest, that extra money in my pocket, cutting my expenses and planning ahead for the future is what life is all about. Just remember this, we can never predict an hour or day into the future, and when tomorrow comes. It is another day all by itself. How will you address it and will you be prepared for the worst? I am.

(3) Fact and not Fiction.

For example: my house is just over 7,000 square feet in size including the car garage and basement. I live on the mountain. Trust me, up here it is several degrees differential from the lower or urban areas come winter. I have heated my house originally with propane. After one winter, the propane furnace came out. In came a brand new furnace in 1988, along with a new oil barrel basement mounted. I also installed several electric heaters. Up until 2007, I was heating strictly with oil and my two fireplaces. I did enjoy my discounts per litre (and still paying thru the nose) but was still going through seven barrels of oil on a full year of heating requirements for 2006 and 2007. As for the wood-----it was only for emergencies. It is important to remember that a fireplace will give very little quality heat when it comes to heating a house as this one, or any other. It will help with the chill and in the process of burning that wood, waste both wood and money.  On a 12 month heating season I burned 6,154 litres of oil. That average then was $0.63.6 per litre for that 06-07 season, or $3,913.94 for that heating year. I heard this morning (December 02/2011) on the news that oil was now at $1.19.7 per litre and down 3/10 of a cent. WOW! Cost that one for my home. In less than four years it would be doubled. What about yours? How much are you paying for the heat and that giant government rebate if you qualify? Think wood for savings and convenience in the long run.

I had enough of the oil and sky rocketing prices. I mean, in this day and age why is it that we CANNOT have HEATING OIL prices frozen at one level based on an average of cost. I mean, what the heck can't our Good Governments do something for us for a change and pick up the differential is there is one? We are massively over taxed on some of these areas and all it does is make it easier for them to pad their own butts in pensions at our expense.

Being close to my sixties then, I was still not too old to saw, cut, and bring in the wood, as well as make the kindling. Why was I burning wood in the work garage and not my house? For the year of 2010; and I mean the full heating year, I burned just less than seven cords of wood in the house and two in the garage. I operate two wood stoves in the house and use them properly. I have not only cut my heating bills by 500%, I save money and don't add to the pollution. We already have too much of it in this world today. When comparing that to oil, electricity and gas, the differential in monies wasted was staggering. When compared to the propane furnace over 23 years ago----and at today's prices; if I was still using propane, it would have been beyond staggering. As for the baseboard electric heat that we only used in the kitchen and basement; (and the basement has yet to be used) since there were no furnace vents installed when the new kitchen was built 5 years ago, (our main kitchen is 18 feet by 27 feet and is used more as a living room) I figured electric heat would be the cheaper alternative. 

So I figured-----why go through the expense to put a wood stove in there? It is an open room with two archways to the other parts of the house. I will just use the baseboard electrical heaters to cut the chill in the mornings. In the 63 days the heaters were on from November 27, 2007 to January 29th, 2008, and for approximately 3 to 4 hours per day, my electrical bill rose from my usual $320.00 to $340.00 per two month period to another staggering figure of (the bill is in front of me as I write) $859.32.  This was more than doubled and close to triple. How could that be? I called my electrician first who said and I quote, 'those are two 2500 watt heaters and they will suck the power like crazy. If it isn't them, it is your meter leaking.' I then called Nova Scotia Power to have my meter checked. To my astonishment-----and according to them, there was nothing wrong with the meter. (WAIT------are those meters monitored by the Government for accuracy?) They replaced it. (I just checked it. I see no Governmental stickers attached like on the gas pumps.) The heaters were then instantly disconnected. The second wood stove was then installed in the house within a week. So----do the math. I did.  

When you consider my story, compare it to your own experiences pertaining to the heating of your home. I will show you the best alternative to high heating costs by far. Investing in a proper and adequate wood stove for the area desired to heat is much cheaper. A properly installed wood chimney; whereas they burn twice as hot as an oil designed chimney, and good wood is a reasonable facsimile to saving money for a change. Amortized over a three to five year period, the savings will be astounding. Never install a stove on a part time basis unless you can maintain a proper heating program. Do it with the idea of either a secondary heat or a main heat on its own. I had two chimneys installed and preferred both of mine to be exterior chimneys. It is more appealing to the Insurance Company; plus I did not have to worry about inside heat within the walls or going up through the center of the house like some I have seen. 

Here comes the compound question. What do you really know about wood, the different kinds, the costs, what wood to buy and what wood not to buy, when to buy it and when not to buy it? What is considered as a proper standard ground cord of wood when comparing it to a cut and split cord of wood, seasoned and unseasoned wood? Wait-----we must consider wood insects and hidden larvae also. And then there are other factors and so on? If you will indulge me and my site, I will do my best to help make available all helpful information over the next year on this site. Further to this, it will be my intention to educate you on wood, heating, comparisons to alternative heating costs and statistics that will show you how to not only save money, but make your heating experience better by doing a little old fashioned cost cutting. On top of that, forget buying that Bow-Flex. You can save that money while particapating in some good old fashion manual labour. In most cases and with many people, it is long overdue and well needed exercise. Forget the remote. It only exercises the thumb and finger. It will be there when you finish. Trust me; I do have several. Hey; I am now 64 years old. If I can do it----- save what I save-----so can you. In this day and age we should weighing convenience to common sense, and weigh them both against wasting money needlessly for what we do not achieve in the end. 

In time I will explore areas such as proper cubic foot measurements on a standard ground laying cord of wood, verses a cut and split cord. Some of these will be clearly pointed out and defined as you read. If you don't read, are too busy to read, I can only say, that is too bad. What is seasoned firewood as opposed to unseasoned firewood? How do I properly deal with wet firewood? When is the best times to buy and not buy wood? Then we will establish the comparisons to oil, electric, and gas heat-----propane and natural gas. Comparisons on how burning wood is better for the environment is also an important one. Is there less pollution using wood? Does wood release greenhouse gases? No!!!! There are no more greenhouse gases generated than does rotting wood in the forest, or on the forest floor from decay, storms and aged trees that just fall and die to and from the forces of Nature. We should weigh all of these clearly in the decisions we make pertaining to wood heat. 

Did you know that at today's oil prices and based on a 200 gallon barrel of oil, it would cost $1,086.88 to fill the 908 litre (200 gallon) tank. I am sure many of you realize that by now. What is amazing is that the equivalent in wood would be about 1/3rd or $375.00 in actual cost. The wood will heat basically the same, if the BTU rate is utilized by good wood, good stove, good chimneys; and not having or burning MIXED WOOD. We will also dwell on how to prepare firewood for seasoning and properly store firewood. I will share things with you as to how much water is in wood and the best ways to season wood. another issue is how to get the most burn power being BTU's and heat without waste. I will attempt to help in your needs of------- 'just how much wood will I need', for the full heating or winter season. We will indulge in the areas of MIXED WOOD and the waste involved in your lost monies by purchasing Mixed Wood. We will explore chemicals used in wood and preservation of wood and the hazards of burning products as this. We will touch on what we call make-up wood, and the dangers to your health should you choose to buy it, get it free and use it. WOOD is simple. Saving a dime here and there on a load or doing a friend a favour by taking his old pallets, construction wood or worse, could cost you way more in the end. Learn why.

How much is heating your home costing you?   Which of the units below is more economical? 

In a way I suppose we should be thankful the domestic electrical rate is much lower than the commercial rate. We do get a break on the tax. Speaking of the tax, I disagree with the tax charged on wood. Whether you get a partial rebate or not, I find it absolutely deploring. One of the things I pride myself on, is that I do not charge tax on the wood I sell. I DO NOT add it in the price or calculate it in the price. No, I am not breaking any laws. And for the record, a chartered accountant does my taxes. However; you are not lucky, nor am I, when it comes to the tax on the fuel I have to use for processing and deliveries. However; on the delivery, it is included at the pump. I have no control on that.

What I find amazing was just how quick using the electrical heaters in my kitchen put my power bill skyward and literally through the roof. I have heard much talk from people how unfair it is about taxing the power we use, the oil we use in our homes and the propane. Where will it end? NEVER! Why is it that come election time promises that these issues are never front and center? Is wood comparable to any of the above sources of heat based on the square footage of the homes we enjoy? For me, oil was cheaper than the propane when I burned it. The discounts helped. Using the electric heat for those two months sure opened my eyes to increased expense. And the propane then, as in comparison to now? That is a good question. Nonetheless; I know it is sure expensive using the BBQ these days. What is the answer? For me------it is spelled QUALITY WOOD! As for anyone using propane, electricity and oil for heat, call the company and ask for a BTU breakdown or cost scale in comparison to wood, square footage on your home and what is expected. They have on, that is----if they will share the information. If not----it can be found via the Internet Highway based on square footage and volume. 

The new requests and conditions by Insurance Companies on oil tanks is sensible in my opinion. Yet, many people cannot afford these new tanks, qualified persons to install them, and oil at the price we are charged. I do agree that NO  OIL TANKS should be located outside unless there is a holding barrier to accommodate what is inside of them should there be a spill. Worse yet---perhaps the antics of that late night shopper who steals oil while you are out, or sleeping, can be a potential hazard in the hiding. What if someone wants to, or actually does break a line to get your oil? Who is responsible for the mess if the culprit is not caught? Even if he is----will he be charged, convicted and a stipulation to the courts upon conviction be made on your behalf for restitution? Do you know and ever thought about the cost of the clean-up of that incident? What if your home insurance is not covering it because you neglected to do things as was requested? Remember the Exxon Valdez? I know; that is a comparison in large scale. The issue is, and with all of the technology----it happened. In life there are no excuses for negligence and stupidity. It is just like a pane of glass. The only thing between that and a thief is the thickness and the rating of the product. 

I know what it cost me to put holes through the 10 inch cement wall in my basement. This was to install the filler pipes the Insurance Company and the oil company wanted. It was that, or no deliveries. On the other hand, I was left with many questions. I know it was more convenient for them to arrive when they wanted, fill it in their own time, bill me, and not have me there to open the basement garage door and watch what went on. However; I still question the delivery units and whether or not I was always getting what was on the ticket. Any machine or gauge has ways to be adjusted and tampered with. The question is; does the Government check these units on a regular basis? Is there a renewable fee for these units on a trust basis system where the Government calculates nothing COULD and WOULD go wrong, or worse; be tampered with? How can I be sure that I do get the proper amount of oil, propane and electricity  that is supposed to be properly metered out? Could my oil be mixed with stove oil or perhaps a bit of gas? I have been there and know that on 200 feet of hose it is not pumped clear on deliveries. This is all about trust. This is also incorporated as living expenses. I used to haul fuel in my tractor trailer days. I know the foolishness that happens from time to time when it comes to bulk transportation.

 Just two months ago in October of 2011, I have had the diesel fuel stolen out of my wood processing tractor two times only 100 feet from my house. Why is that? Oil and diesel is becoming a precious commodity for those who cannot afford it. Did you know that diesel oil is your furnace oil in many cases? Yup-----other than colour, it is the same. Wait-----why is diesel more? Here we go again. It is taxes higher. Mmmmmm----doesn't this add to the cost of processing wood? Yes it does. As for electricity, the price keeps going up. The neat thing there is that no one has found a way to steal your power. They only steal the copper which is adding more expense to the bill in the long term. 

 I was speaking to a gentleman the other day who was using propane. For him, he felt it was reasonable. He hated the thought of having to pay tank rental on the propane he bought from the company. That was over and above the fuel. I had my  battle with one of the Big Companies that had two propane large 350 pound tanks here. When I received my bill for the rental on the two tanks 9 years ago; they were not long coming out of here. If they wanted me to purchase their product, why not fill my own tanks. I will add on this one in a bit. My reasoning on the two tanks was that I got them filled once a year and that I was always here when the propane was metered out. I always wondered on the commercial aspect of burning propane fuel and the tank rentals. I used to have and operate a laundromat until I closed it down two years ago. I was never charged for tank rental because of the amount of propane we used. Mmmmmm----what about restaurants? Is there a tank rental? If not----is it fair you pay one-----and they don't? Should the volume of propane used offset this charge? These are just questions that make me curious. 

As far as the propane in my home went, it was strictly for heating the propane fired water heater that never worked properly since they installed it. What amazes me is that propane burns and we have no exhaust vents for many of these units. It is the same with the propane ranges. It is supposed to be safe. Since it is colourless, odourless and convenient; but yet----do we become curious on Carbon Monoxide Poisoning as to whether it could be there or not? The other use was for my propane range in the smaller kitchen. What bothered me the most was the upkeep on the water heater. And yes----they were supposed to be more efficient than electric and oil fired water heaters. The technician was here seven  times in the three years the thing was here. And the warranty----let's not even go there. The last time his negligence almost caught my house a on fire. Oh---and the expense; now days these guys travel in tandem. Double the guys, double the brain, and double the expense. Personally, I think it is like a great scam. We were having issues with the pilot light from day one. Warranty or not; one night I smelled something and then the smoke detector in the basement went off. I was startled to see the front of the propane water heater black from the soot and a dingy yellow flame coming out from under the inspection plate covering the igniter. It slowly burned  and the soot went up the front about two feet scorching the paint. 

I called the company. Since it was after hours; like you, I received the answering service. They told me someone would be in touch with me within minutes. HELLO!!!!!! Three hours plus later and I was told by the technician not to worry. I called them shortly after 8:00pm that night. Was their clock different than mine? It was 11:30 at night and he was done for the day. He informed me that he would get to it some time before supper time the next day. He said that it was excess propane and the leak could get no worse and wasn't dangerous. Hello----to me ANY OPEN FLAME is dangerous. Without seeing that he could tell that? Wow----was this a politician or a magician I just spoke to? The propane was quickly closed off. He said that was not necessary. And this was a qualified personal that we are supposed to trust? Apparently not all are born with the brain power to see and visualize the possibilities of dangers ahead. And you think I am being hateful? No. I paid for product, expected service and was always paying through the nose when it came to propane and that heater they installed in my house. Where did it end? To me, it was both dangerous and an eye opener. Out it came and in went the electric water heater. It has been there for 7 years now and trouble free. What was neat was that I didn't need a technician to do any of it. More money saved. Yes---I wired it myself.

 For that move----I definitely saved money and home. As for the propane stove in my smaller kitchen, I purchased two 30 pound cylinders and now avoid the rental costs. They will fill up to a 100 pound cylinder if you own it. However; it has to be taken to a bulk facility. I do have and own one. Trust me, in the long run it is cheaper to purchase them. But what I found outrageous was the fact that when I suggested buying the larger cylinder like I had, they clearly would refuse to come out and fill it. Go figure. Is there any way to win on or in a monopolized situation or procedure? There is always a way to save money if one thinks before doing. Is it economical? For me it is. I also had a propane clothes dryer. It was expensive also. When I bought this house 25 years ago, it was here and already piped in like the propane furnace. It is gone also. What I learned from propane is that in my opinion, like Carbon Monoxide; it can be a silent killer. If you can't see it----BEWARE. Oh I know, we are supposed to smell the propane. Supposedly true. But; and trust me---you don't, and won't smell Carbon Monoxide Poisoning. But in the case of my water heater; the smell from the escaping propane was being consumed by the flame. How much worse could it have gotten? Like Mr. Smith under Hazards, I was just glad I was home when it happened. Still----something had to go wrong to make it happen. 

As for the comparison to wood from all of my changes on the three above, I now save money big time. And for those who heat their water by oil year round; just ask my cousin if it is a money saver? I know the answer is both expensive and frustrating for them and their family. It was established that the cost of changing over to another source is an issue because of the age of the house and the way it was built. I have a friend in New Minas who continually burns cut up pallets to keep his furnace going all summer to heat their hot water. Is this smart? Is this efficient? Is burning pallets wise? Check this out also under hazards. Burning pallets and make-up wood is both dangerous, stupid and very time consuming. Is it worth the wasted money in your time and gas obtaining this free crap that businesses want to get rid of? There has to be a reason they want to get rid of them. Remember this; unless they are CPC rated pallets, they are designed to be 'THROW AWAY PALLETS.' Most are made of softwood, left over wood pieces, pressed wood, aspenite and chemicialized products. The name given to them is there for a reason. They are GARBAGE.  If they weren't-----they wouldn't be free. These are things we never think of until after the fact. 

If you have no power through storms, downed lines or power outages, do you have other alternatives? If you have a pellet stove, is it designed to heat and work properly without electricity? Hey-----did you know that you will not waste precious electricity burning wood? If you are like me and use a fan for circulating heat; then power would be handy. No matter, the wood stove will work and burn quite nicely without power. They will work fine without the fans.  Wood does give me everything essential from heat to cooking, to sitting back and relaxing. Even if the power is out, I am still comfortable. Even though there is an electric water heater and the power is out, I still can heat water on the stove. Remember the BTU's needed to heat water? I am happy with wood. If you don't have it and burn it, perhaps it might be worth a shot to consider all of the options and questions above in cost comparisons. Hey----if you don't believe me; by all means, check it all out on the Internet Information Highway. It is all out there floating around just waiting to be downloaded.

PROPANE?                                  FURNACE OIL?                        ELECTRIC HEAT?
Just how much propane, electricity, and/or furnace oil per season do you pay for? How much do you use?  What does your servicing expenses run a year? How expensive is your heat compared to people utilizing wood? Remember the calculation on a barrel of oil verses a cord of wood? It is time to think about saving money, stop paying through the nose for service that you can save money on. As for the weigh-off by electricity and propane against wood, and done like the cord of wood to a barrel of oil; perhaps it is time to get on the phone and ask the energy people selling propane and electricity to make a comparison for you. Get the statistics and compare. It is all about BTU's, energy, heat and being the smart consumer today.

(4) Wood vs. Oil or Natural Gas
Wood Heat Yield
Amount of Wood
BTU Production
Oil Equivalent
Natural Gas Equivalent
High or Very high
1 cord
21,000,000 - 24,000,000 BTU
200-250 gal. of fuel oil
250-300 cu. ft. of natural gas
1 cord
17,000,000 - 20,000,000 BTU
150-200 gal. of fuel oil
200-250 cu. ft. of natural gas
1 cord
12,000,000-17,000,000 BTU
100-150 gal. of fuel oil
200-250 cu. ft. of natural gas
Firewood Measurement verses the above. The simple issue here is the cost of a cord of wood and the heat received for the investment made.




(5) Updated Costs on Oil, Wood & BTU Ratings for December 2012

I felt the need to add some updated calculations based on more current prices for our general areas of Mainland Nova Scotia. Looking at the Imperial Gauging of the GALLON, I will calculate some updated costs and ratings on BTU references to oil/electricity and wood. Looking at the Gallon as it once was, or equal to the Litres of gallon in comparison, one Gallon - 4.546L @ $1.12.9 per litre would cost out at $5.13 a gallon. WOW! I remember it when I bought a 45 gallon barrel  of oil delivered in 1968 for $ 30.00. That is actually depressing. What happened? Looking at the overall and long term view here is simple. Costing this out to a 200 gallon (909.20 Litres) barrel of oil at the rate of $5.13 per gallon; and done either way, the total amount is staggering at $1,026.00 for the barrel to be full. Based on the overview on the cost of wood, for the equal amount of BTU's in value, we are addressing oil for the FULL 200 Gallon (909.20 L) barrel at 33,138, 248 BTU's in Value.

Taking an average of the TOP DENSITY quality wood products; and in this case I will take an average of WHAT I SELL being the Tri-Maple Mix at:
Silver Maple @ 27.1 - 27.7
Hard Maple  @ 30.1 - 30.7
Rock Maple @ 31.1 - 31.7 = an average low side of 88.3 to a high side of 90.1 divided by three for the Tri-Maple Mix Average BTU's across the board at the low side of 29.4 to the high side of 30.033 BTU's or between the two 29.72 Million BTU's per cord of wood with a moisture content below 22.5%. In comparison to oil, that relates to a cost of being equivalent of 200 gallons of oil for 33,138,248 BTU's as opposed to ONE CORD OF TRI-MAPLE HARDWOOD at 29,720,000 BTU's. WOW! What is the cost differential? That is easy. On a PROPER MEASURED AND SCALED CORD of TRI-MAPLE MIX HARDWOOD that I SELL, it literally works out to a cord on MY PRICES of $240.00 a cord at less than 25%. However, you must remember we are calculating this on a BARREL of oil being 200 gallons. The differential in BTU's on the 200 gallon barrel of oil verses the wood is 3,418, 248 BTU's. In dollars and cents that is simple. OIL is darned expensive. ELECTRICITY is even more so. Between propane and natural gas, you do the math. As for the differentials on the BTU differentials, the simple math (if all was quality wood) works out at WOOD of QUALITY being the BEST BANG for your dollar spent.

The bottom line is simple, the differentials between wood, oil and electricity are staggering. The whole key is buying the correct wood based on the density. Other woods such as mixed combinations as:
White Birch, Yellow Birch, Poplar Mix, Beech, Silver Maple, Elm and some toss ins as softwood, there are NO actual ratings whereas it is a mixed product. However, if we take an average of these seven, we do get a count of 181.5 divided by the average-able figure of 7 types of wood in general at 25.9 or on the low side of where it should be, the count is 168.4 or divided back by the same 7, a total of 24.057 and between the two it works out to 24.97 BTU's. However, it is important to gather these comparisons as 1/7th of each wood equally making up one proper cord. Nonetheless, we know that will never be a realism whereas the majority sold as Mixed Firewood is junk and trash. This is well proven ans was proven in a Buying Experiment from one of the sellers on Kijiji in Mid September of this year. The math is simple. FIGURES and QUALITY DO NOT LIE. Only sellers with their own CROOKED AGENDA do. 

I made an arrangement through a friend to buy off of Kijiji from one of the No Name Sellers.  I did buy the load of wood and paid for it myself through him from one supplier this year out of HRM area.......GUESS WHO..... that was delivered to a person's home as a test site in HRM. It was advertised as Rock Maple, Hard Maple, Beech, Oak, Yellow Birch and the ad clearly stated that NO POPLAR WAS IN OUR WOOD. It was supposed to be seasoned. Funny tho, the moisture probe went off at 63% meaning it was close to fresh cut wood being close to 50% moisture overall. What was delivered when piled was the following: 
31% of the make up was of the Poplar family.
22% was White Birch 
01% was Yellow Birch
26% was Sugar Maple and Silver Maple
02% was a combo of Rock and Hard Maple
11% was Beech
03% was Softwood
04% was literally trash, twigs, busted up wood that was jammed into the load. I wanted to do a sting on the procedure, but I felt this was the better avenue to prove a point. As for the Crooked Foolishness, we Know that KIJIJI and most of the Firewood Advertisers there are the ones responsible for all of the SCAMMING and GOUGING when the CONSUMER here in Nova Scotia becomes the buyer of Firewood. Sadly, when  the load purchased was piled,  it totalled to a load piled and CORDED at 1.13 PROPER CORDS. I paid for what was advertised as TWO CORDS at $225.00 and got what I knew I would. SCREWED OVER as the Majority of you consumers get from the ADS on KIJIJI. As for me, I didn't care as it was just to prove a point. To me, it was nothing more than a write off as I gave the wood away to Brian for his help in the experiment. 

This may be a lot to digest without going through the rest of the site. There are questions and answers throughout. However; the most important issue and thought here should be getting answers to the questions as located on the home page lettered from (A) to (S). Nonetheless; in the end, you just might be surprised. In the process of that surprise; stop working for the oil companies and save interest on those credit card bills or monthly oil accounts. Remember; it is your money and you work for it. Why not make it work for you? You can save a lot if you just take the time to read all of these categories and comprehend what is posted. If you do not like the idea of using wood because it could interfere with social programming,  perhaps this could be a waste of your time. But in the long run, keep this in mind; for every barrel of oil you buy, for every month you heat with oil, someone else is heating for 1/3 less with wood.

The phone call I received last night from a gentlemen over wood he had delivered by, and through someone else, has given me reason to think and comment on this. When ordering wood, be precise on what it is you want and what you expect when  it is delivered. Sadly, (and we will address this gentleman as Mr. Jones) when he ordered wood it was clearly established in the ad on Kijiji that the advertiser was advertising FIREWOOD. PLEASE UNDERSTAND THIS, the terminology 'FIREWOOD' is used loosely by many who advertise. In the sense of those ads, they DO NOT specify one kind or several types of wood when categorized as firewood. 

 When an advertiser advertises FIREWOOD, he IS NOT distinguishing any one type of wood. FIREWOOD used in ads, DO NOT emphasize HARDWOOD or clearly identify firewood as one distinguishable type of wood. In 9 times out of 10 it will be a combination or make up of several types of wood. Another thing to be aware on is anyone who is running one type of wood down over another. His lack of experience in telling the truth and dealing in and with quality will leave you holding the short end of the log for more reasons than one.

For your protection, you must CLEARLY IDENTIFY the type of wood you want by defining it to HARDWOOD and hardwood by name such as Maple, Yellow Birch, Black Poplar or other types. In doing so, it is IN YOUR BEST INTEREST to make sure you do not order FIREWOOD as it is commonly known, WITHOUT BEING CLEAR on just what type of hardwood or firewood that you want. Remember, it must be up to you to ASK FOR and ORDER the correct wood and by using the CORRECT terminology in getting that point across. If you don't, and the wood shows up and is defined as FIREWOOD, the seller is really not doing you wrong unless he is intentionally misleading you. Firewood can be classified as a mixture of several types of wood including SOFTWOOD as Mr. Jones ended up getting. Remember, mixed wood has different kindling temperatures and will create an unbalanced one sided burn that will cost you more money in the long run due to the amount of poor wood that is usually associated with FIREWOOD and MIXED WOOD. The reason there are no statistics available is that it is impossible to gauge BTU ratings on MIXED COMBINATIONS of wood used as FIREWOOD. Buy one type of wood and burn only that type of wood. Why is simple! You might pay more, but in the long run it will actually work out to a long term saving of anywhere from 15 to 25% cheaper over the burn rate for a 12 month year.

(5) Addressing the cost and performance of Bio-Bricks as a wood stove alternative
I really didn't want to wade into this one, but I have received a couple letters on it and asking questions about the performance in comparison to wood. Simply put, FIREWOOD is the original renewable fuel and is still being used in Canada in millions of homes. The good thing about FIREWOOD is that t is NOT MAN MADE. This is the issue that concerns me. In a sense, compare it to food. Look at how the prices sky rocketed in Canada when the two big food giants suddenly took control of 95% of the food we eat as coming in through the stores. They own the wholesalers and most of the convenience outlets while stomping on the little guy and clearly making it impossible for him to buy wholesale unless though one of their company owned affiliates.

So, we now have Bio-Brick being sold and when you consider that these are man-made, we should look at the serious end of things here. They boast claims that all are made of hardwood. So, define hardwood. They DO NOT say what breed of hardwood; and we all know that 95% of the leaf bearing trees are hardwood. The question is, will it be guaranteed in writing? It is easy to say Maple or Oak, but really, you have virtually NO WAY of knowing this for sure. So, what the heck is in them and are they solid Maple, Ash, Beech, Birch, Alder and so on? I will go further to explain in simple terms in relation to BTU's verses Hardwood in general.

Sadly, and along the lines as pellets, they are made from compressed sawdust. They claim they are eco-friendly alternative to firewood. They are stackable, purchased by the pallet (separately would be stupid) for around anywhere from $275.00 and up. However, that is at the store or wherever they are sold. So, as in most businesses, mark-ups range from 40% to 100% and sometimes more. However, if you could buy direct as in FIREWOOD, they would be much cheaper. Buying wood direct, there are no middle men when it comes to the process and trucking portion.

I read an interesting comment today on one of the Bio-Bricks websites. That being, 'one pallet of our Bio-Bricks brings as much heat into your house as a cord of wood.' Simple words can be made to fit any scenario. For those of you NOT familiar with Bio-Bricks (do go to section 6 for some interesting facts from STOVE and FIREPLACE manufacturers) there are many concerns to damage to stoves and fireplaces, factory warranties on stoves, manufacturers who say NO to Bio-Bricks and the comments can literally be found with the searching process. The site went on to say, 'typical cord wood moisture content is 21% or so.' However, this is within the accepted levels. On the other hand, if the wood is SEASONED Correctly (section 6) these levels are high. My wood averages 12 to 18% and is well suited for good burning. You still have to remember one thing about UNSEASONED wood, it takes MORE HEAT and ENERGY to burn the excess water therefore cutting down on the heat, BTU's and the quality overall.

Whether this is used as a marketing tool or designed to mislead the consumer, one still must consider it is a MAN-MADE Product. On the other hand, to me I do find it misleading to make a reference that one pallet of Bio-Bricks of about 2000 pounds, give or take a hundred pounds, will deliver the same amount of heat as a cord of wood with a 21% moisture level. Now to me, that is very misleading. Here at home, my wood is less by an average of 6 to 8% making the differential in the comment off by almost 50%. Now that is misleading. However, if you are too lazy to SEASON your wood, choose to burn junk or green wood, they do have a point. Nonetheless, for those of us who do it correctly, they make a false comparison. On the other side of the coin they brag about 6 to 8% of moisture level. Well now, that low of a moisture count will create an atmosphere of DRY AIR and A FAST BURNING product creating extreme heat on the stove. Most stoves are built and designed to burn FIREWOOD and not MAN-MADE PRODUCTS. Again, do check with the manufacturer on this. I DO NOT mean the store; they are strictly an agent for the manufacturer. It is the manufacturer who gives the warranty and NOT the SELLING STORE or AGENT.

If you look at my home wood, well seasoned and compare it to the claim by the Bio-Brick people, I am being rolled in oats with everyone else. No that prompted my comments and research. If you compare Bio-Bricks to my wood, seasoned as it is, the Bio-Brick comes up way short and damned expensive in comparison. On top of that, we should calculate the running around and dragging the stuff home, or making arrangements for someone to do it unless the distributor will deliver it F.O.C. Don't hold your breath. again, no one works for free unless it is Cheaters and Scammers. Sadly, and on average here in Nova Scotia, I am about the only firewood supplier who will GUARANTEE one type of wood and will assure you, the consumer that you WILL NOT get or be able to buy MIXED WOOD from me.

When you look at the BTU rate on Bio-Bricks, and unfortunately I will take this from a U.S. piece of research, we will compare one form of wood to Bio-Brick for some interesting stats. Using Ash (as many sell here in Nova Scotia mixed with other wood for MIXED FIREWOOD) and using the table as being seasoned at 12% as the test show, the most amazing thing is at 12%, seasoned ash (and it is not near as good as Maple) is being weighed at about 3,000 pounds per cord. In my opinion, that is a bit light. Green eight would be @ 4300 to 4500 pounds. However, that is ALSO on an unprocessed cord. processed and well seasoned it would weigh about 3200 to 3300 pounds which would make the figures off a bit. Based on their findings, this would make the heat values in a Cord of Seasoned Ash about 25 Million BTU's per seasoned cord. However, that falls way short of the Tri-Maple Mix I sell at an average of about 30.5 Million BTU's per seasoned cord. That alone is a 20% differential on the BTU's alone based on the density and weight of the Maple which is more - and in MY FAVOUR. 

The manufacturer basis their heat estimate (remember the word ESTIMATE) for a two pound brick at 17,000 BTU's. Using the Ash on its facial weight, that related to about 8,500 BTU's per pound on the Ash which would be almost identical. However, using the Tri-Maple Mix Maple I sell, the calculations are again are low by 20 plus percent making the Maple firewood better in the long run . If we calculated it on the seasoned pound, the BTU rate would be about 15,000 BTU's per ONE pound in comparison to their 17,000 BTU's per two pound brick. No matter how you do the math, one has to calculate the product by the real facts by what you season and by what you burn. If we look at Mixed firewood, DO BUY the Bio-Brick because you would be further ahead since you are getting screwed over in lost BTU's, QUALITY and much lower BTU rating on Mixed firewood by close to 30 to 40%. You may think it complicated, really it is not. In the long run, picking the CORRECT FIREWOOD for your family, Seasoning it properly and making sure you do get proper cordage WILL MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE. 

To be fair to Bio-Brick Products or whatever the name it is sold under, you still should be making sure the stove is adequate for the extra burn, that the manufacturers warranty is not void on using them, you do have the correct chimney and stove set up to be safe, and above all, DO WEIGH THE COST because they really are much more expensive. whether being delivered for $10.00 to $50.00 per pallet, you must weigh these as costs. also, do keep in mind the aggravation on getting the fire started. It will take much longer than wood. and for anyone who has an air-tight stove, we all know the battles we have from time to time getting those fires started with kindling and wood. 

All in all, this product is more expensive and in my opinion, will never overshadow wood. However, do keep one thing in mind, the more firewood we chew up making products as this, the more firewood that gets chipped and made into pellets and aspenite, the more expensive regular firewood and these bricks and pellets will be. This is all about something new, something again MAN-MADE and something not proven as wood for the past couple of hundred years. Funny tho, man has burned wood from the beginning of time and from the time that fire was first discovered. whether by accident, lightening, clicking two stones together, rubbing sticks to create friction to a burn, or just striking a match, FIREWOOD will far outlast these MAN-MADE profitable methods where so many will make both commissions and big profits at our expense. More info is posted in section #6 on Bio-Products and warranties.


I do not post my delivery rates.They can be obtained by the email process of supplying me with your correct address & postal code. I will respond with a guaranteed quote on wood and delivery fees LANDED in your yard. 

                   My processor above and some of my working units. Loaded trailer and of the three trucks I use.

How is the price of Firewood on the whole gauged?           
                       What is the cost of a cord or more of wood and how do we calculate it?
How do I determine the cost of a cord of cut and split wood on delivery?
What is the cost of delivery fees from my yard to any destination?
For me, and on the delivery, it is all pertaining to the distance from where I am located. All loads quoted from here will be based on one of the three loads being a two cord load, three cord load, and/or,  four cord load per trip basis. All calculations are done on cords verses mileage, and no matter how I look at it, the cost on any one of the three is virtually the same. There are no special deals or special fees; and I do pride myself on giving everyone the same price. By doing this, I do avoid issues pertaining to making side deals and specials. However; should I screw up on delivery quotes, I DO MAKE IT RIGHT and absorb it at no increased cost to the public. With the cost of wages, fuel forever rising and fluctuating in general, repairs, taxes, insurance, truck registration and time involved; for the quality of the wood I offer, and the long term in what I offer and sell, is a good package alone. 

Imagine yourself doing this! Head out to the local grocery store, big box store, or better yet, let's look at the gas pumps. Go inside and tell them you will give them  $75.00 for $100.00 worth of gas. On the other hand;  roll the dice and tell the local big grocery store (cannot name names) that you are prepared to give them $75.00 for that $100.00 of fresh meat for your BBQ----or the Big Box store $150.00 for that $250.00 flat screen TV. Just how far do you think you would get? Do you see the point? Why should it be different for anyone doing an honest and true wood business? You know what the other stores will say. Should the wood  producer, if he is doing you right by telling you the truth and being honest with you, be put through the grist mill? If he isn't fair and doesn't know his product; in this case being wood, I do suggest he is fair game. Not all of us are like that. On the other hand----you have to be both judge and jury. To do that, you best be learning about wood and the procedures involved.

I am based just outside of New Minas. This will only relate to areas considered to be in the mid-range of 75 miles to 100 from New Minas; while also taking in areas of Annapolis, Bridgewater, Halifax/Dartmouth, Eastern Passage, Maitland, some distances further, and all in between areas. I have made arrangements on distances further, and that option is still a feasible one. Regardless of where you live, it is important for you to give me complete and easy instructions to your home by the easiest route possible. Should you live outside of an area that I think would be unfair to you for delivery verses total wood cost, I will be honest with you and suggest someone more local or closer. And if I can help you find a producer who I think will treat you right, I will endeavour to assist you. 

This was a 4 cord load being delivered at one 2 cord of Maple on the trailer and one 2 cord load of Black Poplar on the truck. Together as a unit they are legal and the cord count is proper. 

(2) Examining the Costs in Product:
The cost of wood is based on the type of product that you order. Like anything, it is best to know what you want and as much of the product that you are contemplating. As clearly defined in other sections, I deal  in SPECIFIC WOOD being the MAPLE FAMILY and BLACK POPLAR. I sometimes also carry some of the YELLOW BIRCH  and HACKMATAC when  product is available. 

The price per cord is NORMALLY NOT posted on my website until I know the actual cost of the wood being landed at my yard. Based on the availability of wood, cost of fuel and trucking from roadside; it all becomes a factor pertaining to the overall cost of production to me.

 As the price of diesel fuel continues to rise, wages increasing at a rate that almost is alarming; and sometimes  it seems monthly, the overall cost of cutting the wood and trucking it from roadside will affect the cost to me. Since the cost of raw production and fuel is higher than last year and rising almost weekly, it will raise the cost of cutting and processing from here. All pricing is based on cost to me. Even when the price of  wood went up last year due to these increasing costs and scarcity of wood, I accepted the increased price to me and kept them in house rather than pass them on. Even with the price of fuel, my delivery rates remained the same. I try to be fair. In a way I wish the Government Regulatory System on fuel would be the same. It is pathetic to play the numbers game weekly because of the foolish regulation crap that governs the up and down cost of everything we buy. Fuel is the killer. No matter what the price, many of the cutters, processors, land owners and truckers in this business set their rates by the first and middle of the year. That is unfortunate for those of us caught in the middle.

There are many prices available on wood from low to mid-range to high. The thing you should consider before talking about wood, is to find out which wood is best suited for your needs. We did cover that in the earlier sections. When it comes to pricing; like the quality of food, clothing, services, tools, vehicles, insurance, heating sources and whatever; the quality verses price should be the main concern. If you buy cheap wood thinking you will save money; there is a 25 to 50% chance you are losing those precious dollars  in BTU's before it is even dumped in your yard. If you choose mixed wood hoping to also save money and get good heat; trust me, the result will be much the same in the end. You are not the winner. 

Without getting deep into the physics of things, the (BTU's-British Thermal Unit) is the scale used in calculating the amount of heat energy used or needed by demand to accomplish your needs. Heating equipment is all about BTU's, as is good wood.  It all spells energy in the end. The section on BTU's is before this one. If you haven't read it, do read it. All of this is based on quality and performance of the products we use. Wood, stoves and chimneys are no different. If you choose to purchase and use wood that is not classified as top grade or good wood, you are the one losing out on the deal that was supposed to be so great. Do yourself a favour and save your money if you are not prepared to address the issue of good wood as to cheap wood and deals. REMEMBER THIS; for anyone Selling Mixed Wood, Poorly Cut Wood and Short Cordage----'YOU WILL NOT and CANNOT WIN.'

It is important to remember two things; low grade wood as we define it through a mixture of several types or poor wood, is not getting a good package. In the long run, it will give you less burn time, less heat-----BTU's, and possibly create CREOSOTE issues that will cost you much in the end before your heating season is over for the year. Then there is damage should the worst happen. That in time can, and will relate to problems. That is because all wood does not grow the same and season in the same time frame. That being the case, it is quite obvious that mixed wood will not burn equally. If it would, there would be BTU charts and statistics on Mixed combinations of wood. 

(3) Taking a strong look at low standard firewood: Let us use the Green, White or Yellow Poplar tree and/or the White Birch as an example. The growth ratio to Maple or Yellow Birch is almost four times slower than that of the other trees in comparison. In essence, if the tree will grow four times as fast as another, you must consider the hardness of the wood and the moisture draw needed for that growth. If that is considered, ask yourself----is this good wood? Why is it that good furniture is made from such wood as Oak, Maple, Rubber Tree----yes I said Rubber Tree. Did you know that furniture stores pass off import product from Rubber Tree as Finished White and Yellow Birch? Trust me----it is true. I used to have four furniture stores and did frequent the Furniture Buyers Show in January in Toronto every year. It is no different than the wood trade in general. On the other hand, anyone can sell poor wood - just as anyone can sell cheap furniture at high prices. I mean, most of the stores in Nova Scotia bring in Container after container full of cheaply made furniture from China. Those are the people and businesses making money on a product that is considerably inadequate in many aspects. In doing so, you are the loser. But then, they get to smile all the way home or to the bank because you did them a favour by taking this crap off their hands.   

When pricing issues come about, it is important to remember most suppliers will make sure they are the winners. This can be accomplished by maintaining a fairly high price and making it appear you are getting a deal for the money involved. In comes the mixed wood for those deals. It is them who control what goes in the load; and for sure----they are not there to lose money. For you purchasing wood; and a good wood at that, it should be the most important thing. Trust me----mixed combinations of hardwood or wood in general called, (FIREWOOD).....Mixed Winter Firewood at best, is just another way of saying politely, 'I got wood For Sale.' So, when 'Johnny the Woodchuck' says he will sell you three cords of wood with no delivery charge-----is it a GOOD DEAL? WOW! Is he a good guy or what? That sure does sound like a deal and the guy I want to buy from. I am not here to sell you wood. I will if you want it. However; this is all about telling you what goes on out there, why, how, the reasoning behind it and the ways you can stop it. 

(4) Questions needed to be asked about the wood you are thinking on buying:

What kind of wood is it?
Where did it come from?
How long has it been cut?
What are the saw cut sizes? What are the split sizes?
How much kindling is in with my wood?
Are my block ends and short cuts there?
Does much of this wood have the bark missing?
How is this cord of wood measured in cubes?
Is it a 128 or 168 Cubic Foot Cord when delivered loose?
How much wood will I have when it is piled up?
Is it a mixed combination of different wood? These are things you need to know before you buy from anyone. REMEMBER THIS-----MIXED WOOD IS NOT CLASSIFIED AS GOOD WOOD ON THE WHOLE. 

On the other side of the coin, 'Tim the Woodsmansays, 'I have the best deal on wood at $150.00 a cord and $25.00 for delivery of a load. But, if you buy four cord or more, I won't charge you any delivery fee.' So-----now you think he is a good guy too? Right? Tune in tomorrow and let's see how Archie and Veronica are doing at the beach. Hey----who knows-----maybe Frankie Avalon and Annette Funicello (possibly spelled incorrectly) are back for another run at Beach Blanket Party. (Yes----I am that old) This brings another WOW or two from me since I know first hand the cost of wood, wood production and trucking. And hey-----remember one thing----- MIXED WOOD! This is a great price. However; you need to ask the above questions, and especially the one big one as to WHY IS IT A GREAT PRICE? MIXED WOOD! Or----is it that you do not care what you buy for wood? On top of that, what are you truly receiving in reference to the Real Cord as laid out by Measurement Canada? And if you don't care, that really is too bad. However, if you have that much money to burn, best go back to burning oil. The oil companies really stick it to you. However, you are guaranteed a true gallon .

Let us look at the most reasonable issue here. What is the actual cost of producing wood in the forest? It grows daily and without much help from us. However; what determines the price of wood to begin with? Consider these factors------taxes on the land, how much wood, the kind of product growing and the cost to maintain by trim or spot cutting. From there, it is cutting in general and getting the wood to roadside. In comes the trucking or moving it out of the woods by a skidder to roadside for pick-up.  Then comes the point of processing, and/or delivery to the processor (and in that case it would be me, or someone else in the trade) to, or from point (A) to point (B). Once that is accomplished, yard processing by cutting it and splitting it is the next step. From there, the option of purchasing is up to you. Only after that should any delivery be tendered. Always remember one thing. MIXED WOOD!

Most wood cutters will charge between $75.00 to $125.00 (depending on the quality of the wood, the kinds of wood, the mixed wood content and cost of getting it from the stump to roadside) on a Ground Laying Cord (standard cord) in 8, 12 or 16 foot lengths on the average to Roadside. This is based on the stump-age of a tree standing on the stump before it is cut down. Please do not misunderstand this on how it is written. From the cutter, he cuts  cords of wood usually by 8 feet long, by 8 feet wide, by 8 feet high. Others will cut in R.L. causing a different measurement. No matter; in the end, a cord is a cord. This would total out and scale roadside at 512 cubic feet, or 4 cords based on a Laying Ground Cord or Standard Cord. (Not many cutters will cut wood to roadside at 4 feet wide, by 4 feet high, by 8 feet long). From Roadside, it is the buyers problem to arrange transportation unless it is part of the cutters or sellers package. 

From that point to where you live, will depend on many things such as mileage, fuel surcharge fee, (compliments to the Government and their road taxes and rising fuel costs as set by them) upload charge, unload charge, any expenses to the trucker should he get stuck in your yard, to who knows what. On the average, and on a 12 to 14 cord load of wood, the cost to move it from point (A) to point (B) can be costly. On average, it can run anywhere between $25.00 to $50.00 a cord depending on the distance and problems involved by where you want it unloaded.

 It is important not to lose sight of the main issue here being; these big rigs only average between 4 to 6 miles to the gallon based on the weight hauled and how efficient the truck is. I am looking at a N.S. Intra Provincial Registry Chart for the cost of plates. Check this one out. To register a tri-axle unit, being truck and trailer; on 60,000 kgs of weight, the Provincial fee for the highway plates is $3,437.98. Imagine----that is $71.62 a week or $286.50 a month. It is expensive. Insurance again can top the $10,000.00 to $20,000.00 a year. Look at that on top of fuel and time----wood looks expensive.  Have you considered that 90% of these costs are incorporated and hidden in oil and propane? However; it is not when you look at the heating BTU's on Seasoned Wood that is not of MIXED WOOD combination.

Now, on the trucks loading wood at roadside and unloading it in your door yard; once they incorporate using the log loader, it gets worse. The power take-off is then engaged and the engine is then running at about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle to give them the hydraulic pressure to use the machine. From there, the fuel consumption again lowers and drops the fuel mileage even more. It is the same with the log and wood harvesters in the woods. Imagine this; one ruined truck tire is about $600.00 to $750.00. A broken hydraulic hose and environmental mess can be disastrous. And the cost----let's not even go there. Then there is the down time on top of that. A ruined Skidder or Harvester tire can run in the thousands of dollars. Just so you know-----this all comes into play when considering the cost of wood from the land owner to the cutter, to the trucker, and then to me. Finally, getting it to you is another cost.

Some cutters and drivers charge by the ton. Did you know that if you buy a 14 cord tractor trailer load of wood, once processed, cut and split, suddenly, it is not a Ground Laying Cord or (Standard Cord) anymore? It is a processed 14 cord load (sawed, cut and split) which is about 65 to 70% of the total load shipped by the cutter or land owner depending on the cut of the wood. This is an average (68% calculation done here based on a Standard 128 Cubic Foot Cord) or 9.52 cords to the generous side of perhaps a bit more than 10 cord of wood and possibly a bit higher. This is where the scammers and cheaters make their money by SHORT CORDING the CONSUMER (you) to make up the differential in cutting losses. If the load is guessed upon by marks on the truckers loading stakes and loaded tight, it could be a bit more than actually measured to scale. If the trucker is a sloppy log machine operator (and I have seen some) and cross piles or knot loads with wood piled incorrectly, or, you end up buying wood with half of the centers rotted out and hollow, it COULD COST YOU MUCH IN THE WAY THE CORD IS CALCULATED. Right now you are curious and wondering why. This is because if the WOOD IS HOLLOW, as shown below, the cordage on air is lost. 

(5) Do I have the right to complain if the wood is below my expectations?
BELOW ARE PICTURES OF BAD WOOD BEING WHAT ONE SELLER SHIPPED HERE. NO it was not kept once the pile was worked. YES-----IT WAS RETURNED! IF YOU LOOK AT IT ANOTHER WAY, THE HOLES ARE LOST CORDAGE due to air space and wasted volume. THIS SPELLED OUT RELATES TO YOUR LOSS IF YOU KEEP IT.  Would you want this delivered to your home? People sell this crap and expect the consumer to take it as Good Wood. That DOESN'T HAPPEN HERE. If someone brings you crap like this, send them away. The center is mud, rot and trouble.

      Have you ever received wood as this? If so, you did the seller a favour. 

If it was in the firewood you bought, the centers consist of mainly decayed mass due to an over abundance of moisture caused from rotted standing trees that have lost their life due to infestations of many kinds, center root rot, cracked seams that could be from over growth, lightening, other forces of nature, not to mention homes for rodents, ants and many other forms of life that you never see until it is too late. The worst issue is that it actually ends up having the centers consisting of a mud rot. As for the BTU value, there is none because dried rot or wet rot does not produce heat. worse than occupying space in a load or pile, it will actually take twice the space, split or not, than a regular piece of wood therefore causing you to receive less wood. Many scammers use this type of product regularly as fillers.

Sadly; this seller expected me to both keep, cut and sell this junk to someone in one of my loads.                  

(6) Are there flexible tables in firewood?
These tables are not very flexible. Both the cutter and trucker scale the load before it leaves Roadside. REMEMBER THIS; the cutter will make sure his load is as close to accurate as he can at Roadside. As for the trucker; you be the judge. I have seen it where truckers loaded 14 cords of wood on a load, reloaded it again after leaving the cutter by knot piling and air holes. Later he tendered the load at 14 cords only to end up with a cord  or more dropped somewhere on side of the highway for a later pick-up and resale by him. I am not saying all are crooked. I just know of someone who did this A FEW TIMES. If you buy a truck load of 8, 12 or 16  foot wood, make sure it is loaded properly on the truck and piled tightly. Remember, knot piling and air holes are not cubes. 

(7) What is knot piling?
You ask without saying anything; WHAT IS KNOT PILING? Knot piling is out of shape wood that is cut having large protrusions off of the wood itself. This is a result of improperly cut limb sections, the crotch of trees or crooked growing sections that WILL NOT ALLOW the wood to be piled tightly without lots of air pocketing. Keep in mind that you also loose on 16 foot (R.L.) wood when it is cut and split. Many state from experience that it is more than what you loose on the 8 foot because of the top end cuts of the tree. Cubic feet of wood is based on cordage and how both the cutter, owner and trucker get paid. AND TRUST ME, NO ONE WORKS  FOR FOR FREE TODAY......AND NO ONE TRUCKS FOR FREE. So if someone tells you there is no delivery charge on his wood because it is free on any wood you purchase, call me------I HAVE LOTS OF SWAMP MUD FOR SALE. 

The simple question is; that deal from Johnny and Tim------how much of a deal is it when piled? How much of the real 128 cubic foot cord is being delivered? YES! The loss factor on the wood is just like that. So-----I ask you-----who makes it up? Is it the wood cutter? NO! He already cut 14 cords based on the Standard Cord taken to roadside, contracted and/or sold it and has his money. Is it the trucker you hired? NO! The wood virtually has nothing to do with him if he is honest; other than scale and charge you by the cordage that he picked up from the cutter. Remember; the trucker is only paid once delivery is tendered. And if you have doubts when ANY LOAD is delivered, send it back. WOW AGAIN!!!!! We are left with the wood producer and seller. Is he losing this cordage to give you this unbelievable deal at his expense? No!----well-----only if you believe in the tooth fairy. When I cut wood here, I know the differential and I make it up as needed giving you the wood you bargained for. Proper cordage is included in my pricing and cuts. Think again!

(8) Six questions you need to have answers to:
It all comes down to one or all of THE FOLLOWING six things.
(1) What is the price to you of a true cord of wood, cut and split before delivery?

(2) Is that deal you are being offered a true deal based on quality, good wood and proper cord count?

(3) Is that free delivery or small delivery fee your good fortune, or, is it a perk hoping you will buy extra?

(4) Is the wood that you are now getting or negotiating on, a True Cord based on quality with even cuts and split to that of 168 cubic feet on a loose cord, or, is it 128 cubic feet based on a True or Standard Cord when piled? If it is 128 cubic feet on, or in the truck, then the cord is between 65 to 70% of a True Standard Cord when piled. IF so......the seller is making the cordage back on you by the short cord that he should have absorbed in making the loose cord available. This is clearly covered in the other sections of this site and is information you need to read and understand. But if he is, his price should reflect  that and be adjusted to the SHORT CORD, and be based on the fact he is delivering less than a proper piled cord. Still, that practice by Measurement Canada is still an illegal process.

(5) Is the wood at what we call (NFC) being No Freight Charge or (PP) Pre-Paid on delivery to you? If so------by whom? Remember-----nothing in life is for free. Better yet-----if it is included in the price quoted, do ask him to explain all of the above. Personally, I would love to get all of my wood here at NFC. However; I do not believe in Miracles, Magic, Santa Claus or the Tooth Fairy.

(6) And the toughest one of all to swallow, is it cheaper for you to hire a truck, do it yourself with the idea of  getting a good cord count and saving more money? If you believe in miracles----you are a winner. Go forth and buy lottery tickets. I know the cost to do this when you involve fuel, time, travel, and will share it below.

(9) Cost of freighting, or on average delivery charges.
Should someone offer to haul wood to you, for you, and deliver to you in a half ton truck or trailer not suitable of hauling and cording a cord load, BEWARE! You cannot get a proper cord count unless it is by a mode of transportation that can be measured based on the cut, split and loose cord. To cube anything, measurements are based on flat sides, top and bottom. Half ton trucks with wheel wells in the box take away from the cording as do the same in any trailer. On the other hand; anyone receiving wood hauled this way should never be accepting it until it is clearly piled in rows  on the ground. This will ensure the proper cordage has been tendered. That is one of the down falls of people doing odd tasks or pick-up jobs without proper equipment. Someone loses. 

Another slick measurement used is the piling and squaring of wood on wooden and metal pallets. This is a dicey one. Whereas to have a proper count, the pallet MEASURING ON THE INSIDE should be 48 inches, by 48 inches, by 48 inches high to make 1/2 cord. This is only if the wood is tight piled, 16 inch cuts or packed the same.  WHY? Because buying wood this way is reckless since you have no idea what is in the middle of the pile, and/or what the whole pallet consists of in cut sizes. Another point to look at is 'what if the wood is cut slightly smaller being 14 to 15 inch cuts so it will comfortably fit in the pallet'? Simply put, for ever ONE INCH missing off of a pile or even cut piece of wood means volume wasted, less wood by 6.5% per inch less than 16 inch cuts.

 If you calculated that on the bases of a pallet 4 X 4 X 4 foot pallet size, that would mean for a half of cord on a pallet instead of 64 cubic feet you would receive 59.84 cubes being less than what you are paying for. On a cord if it was a proper based cord claiming to be 128 cu. ft., that would relate to 119.68 cubic feet being almost 10 cubic feet short of the cord. It doesn't sound like much until you look at the bigger picture being 2, 3 or 4 cords. There is no way to check on the type of wood on that pallet until it is home, delivered and piled. After it is there----good luck on complaints and returns. Anything short of that is wrong. Hey----- I believe we have one of the big stores in New Minas selling wood on pallets in 2011 and 2012 and that is/was the practice. Sadly, the pallets didn't even measure 48 inches square. It was more like 42 inches by 48 inches on the bottom. My concern would be short cording at that. Also, you will find people selling this way will have MUCH HIGHER prices. In my opinion and other than to take advantage of someone in time of need, I would definitely frown on purchasing wood in this manner.

I have seen one place, the same place in New Minas selling it as much as $179.99 to $199.00 plus tax and delivery for a pallet of wood. HELLO!!!!!! This is just friggin' wrong in my books. On top of that, it makes a proper cord well over $400.00 with delivery and taxes and could crawl to as much as $500.00 if you are looking at the money end. People indulging in this practice should have two main questions asked, is this fully seasoned and for how long? The wood on this pallet-----is it mixed or one kind? You could get two cords of good wood from me for that. Keep in mind that these are all methods where extra labour is involved bringing forth the question of is this right or is this wrong? Is it economical or not? How much is that convenience really worth? Better yet, is it mixed wood; and if so-----what is in the pile? Just because someone says it is a half cord on the pallet, one type of wood and seasoned, measure it yourself and carefully check the wood. 

Remember this, White Birch, Green, White  and Yellow Poplar is not good wood. And by all means, learn the cubic measurement scale. I would clearly suggest to anyone purchasing wood in this manner get the content in writing and the time frame pertaining to seasoning written on the invoice. If they are not prepared to guarantee what you are buying, one should question as to why not? If it is explained as policy not to do that, do find reverse and move on.  Most pallets on average are 40 inches, X 48 inches, being a CPC pallet and falling short of a 1/2 cord by about 15% to as much as 20%.

To cord from one, it should be measuring 48 inches, by 48 inches, by 48 inches high for that 1/2 cord. If it does, it takes two of these to make a proper full cord if piled properly. Also remember that there are also other pallets on the market from make-up wood, chemical and glued processed wood, and other forms. Do not burn these. These are covered under the Wood Hazards Category. They could be VERY DANGEROUS to your health. And then there are the so called, 'steel basket cord containers.' Measure them on the INSIDE and do the cube measurement before buying. All in all, one could be swayed because they look so neat and are piled so evenly. In my experience, to pile evenly in a basket 48 inches on the inside, one has to have smaller cut wood or have a basket way larger than 48 inches cubed. On top of that, if the wood is cut at 12, 13, 14 or 15 inches to fit in the basket----suddenly it is Short Cording coming into the game. If the wood is tossed into the basket loose and sold that way, you definitely are not getting a deal. In essence, when piled it will work out to be about 65 to 70% of what should be or is advertised pertaining to being piled. You have to always remember that it is you that has the right to walk away from anything that just does not fit the program. The one that gets me is the people selling wood at anywhere from $50.00 to $100.00 a half ton truck load. They are the ones making the deal here. It is your money and you do have the right to question all transactions under what is classified as a Proper Sales Transaction. LEARN HOW TO CUBE and USE IT ON DELIVERIES MADE.

(And remember, all costs below were calculated in 2012. This is now 2014 ans on average, since then, diesel fuel alone has risen an average on the year of 2013 by 23.87% and in 2014 being January 27th by an exactor clause in Nova Scotia, a further increase by 8.7% per litre alone bringing diesel in at increase since January of 2013 by almost 33% over the previous 12 months.c
I will toss out some simple math here just to hopefully bring some common understanding to how this all works. I have a Industrial Wood Processor and with the cost of chain oil, diesel fuel, chains, bars, sharpening the chains, files, hydraulic oil, operating two tractors to feed this machine (one to load and one to run the processor) the average COST to process a cord of wood with wages runs about $45.00 to $50.00 per cord. Sometimes this is much higher when working with Hard and Rock Maple wood due to the weight and density. If anyone tells you differently, they are definitely telling tales and really are working for nothing. If they are cutting and splitting it the old fashion way, it will be even more if they count their time. When you calculate this on top of the landed cost, margins are very slim. Then I look at the wear and tear of  my equipment, depreciation of equipment, tires, insurance, registration (and trucks are way more expensive than cars, whereas trucks are registered on weight) and everything else involved. Wood is becoming expensive before it leaves my, or any other door yard. When someone offers you a deal on wood, you need to have them explain it and how they can do it. Remember one important thing; the only deal out there is one sided and trust me-----it isn't on your side. HOWEVER, it will always be spelled and called MIXED WOOD.

On the average, let us look at delivery trucking. Whether it is a small truck or large truck, these trucks give between 8 to 10 miles a gallon. And that is only if an owner is lucky. And in cities and towns with hills and such, it becomes much much less. Do you remember the window manufacturer's sticker on that new car or perhaps half ton truck you looked at? Do you remember seeing Highway mileage and City mileage based on performance tests? Those are there for a reason. The amount of fuel consumed is based on the amount of weight hauled, speeds travelled and between city and highway driving. If you digest the info posted on the vehicles, it is not hard to understand why city driving costs you more. Fresh cut wood is wet, green and heavier. It will cost more to move on the highway as well as in the city. Up and down city streets and intersections with lights, stopping and starting, it becomes more costly. Again----if there is no delivery charge  quoted----something is out of whack. THINK THIS THROUGH.

What if the wood I am buying is seasoned? Here we go again. You need to read the other sections on the site. No matter; let me take you on a 50 mile delivery one way,  and then turn it into a round trip for argument sake (80 kms) with two cords of wood. I will finally set this at 100 miles, or 160 kms for the round trip. It could be 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 cords if it could be done legally on the highway and the cost would still work out close to the same because of the extra weight factor. I will calculate the cost both ways. Weight is approximately 10,000 pounds for the two cords of green wood, and seasoned wood would be about 7,500 to 8,000 pounds. Yes.......there is that much water in the wood. A truck suitable to legally carry this weight will run another 10,000 to 14,000 pounds, or more, depending on the truck, size and box structure. As on the truck we have hauling two cords and the trailer hauling two cords, the weight loaded would be closer to 26,000 pounds overall. 

FEBRUARY 03rd/2014 UPDATE on Fuel.
(And remember, all costs below were calculated in 2012. This is now 2014 and on average, since then, diesel fuel alone has risen an average on the year of 2013 by 23.87% and in 2014 being January 27th by an ex-actor clause in Nova Scotia, a further increase by 8.7% per litre alone bringing diesel in at increase since January of 2013 by almost 33% over the previous 12 months as it fluctuates full time between 25% to 33%. And remember, the table below DOES NOT show the current past years fuel increases.

On average-----and I will split the average miles per gallon at 9; whereas it is loaded one way, therefore making 100 miles for the round trip. I divide this by 9 miles a gallon, being 11.11 gallons of fuel at diesel prices today, being $1.29.7 a litre, or $5.88 per gallon for a cost of $65.33 for the round trip baring no other expenses....... (or 160 kms) divided by 1.6 kms to the mile, at again 100 miles, being exactly the same amount and cost on fuel. Oh....WAIT....... is there something missing here? Amazing.....I FORGOT about TIME and WAGES. Let me do the average time at three hours on that trip and another $45.00 for wages on this 100 mile trip by the time you dump and return home. For the record, that is well below the scale professional truck drivers get paid. And yes----I still do possess those credentials and title yet. And if someone says, I don't charge for my time-----my time is free and so on; right then, start with the questions. 

No one does anything for free when it involves trucks and equipment. I don't care who they are. The reason to this is simple----ALL COSTS MONEY TO OPERATE. If they did----look at the money we would save on the politicians pension fund; that in my opinion, they DON'T EARN or DESERVE. Think about this also,  did you ever wonder if wages and time is calculated in the cost of delivering furnace oil, propane or whatever? Remember; nothing in life is free. Wait----does this mean that in some misguided sense of thinking  that the government is setting a transportation fee and wages in the regulated cost of these fuels? How do you think the cost of these services are calculated? Right again.  These practices are defined as 'HIDDEN COSTS', even though you don't see them. I will bet you never once considered any of that. See----there is a lot about all of this that one never considers. Why? It is because no one wants to divulge it and make the information available due to more controversy and questions.

OK, I finally have this worked out. Simply put......that works out to a base cost; BARING NO EXTRA EXPENSE, at $110.33 or $1.1033 cents per mile to get you a load of wood delivered. AND REMEMBER.....THAT IS COST. SO----WHEN SOMEONE TELLS YOU DELIVERY IS FREE; YOU ARE GETTING A DEAL; QUESTION IT.  THERE IS AN AGE OLD SAYING, 'NO ONE RIDES FOR FREE.' That being the case, 'why do you think the wood you are buying is riding for free?' The question is------JUST WHAT ARE YOU BARGAINING ON THAT YOU THINK IS FREE? On the other hand, wouldn't it be more intelligent for the owner of the truck and wood to let both sit than haul it for FREE and GIVE THE WOOD AWAY AT A LOSS; especially if he makes no money? Think about it.

For the record, trucks are expensive to operate. If a producer and processor is lucky, he may make $20.00 to $30.00 on a cord of good wood after it is cut, split and delivered clear of all expenses. Looking at the scammer and downside, if he short cord you by 25% to 50% on cordage, he is the fellow making the money and AT YOUR EXPENSE. What he makes is literally criminal and with about a 4 to 1 ratio in his favour. 

I am an old retired trucker who still enjoys the highway, doing deliveries and treating people right. The question is, 'Would you honestly do this work for that little of money? Would you spend the money I have tied up in equipment to be a nice guy like Johnny and Tim? Would you sit on the cost of a couple of hundred cords of wood all winter to sell it and deliver it for free because you are a NICE GUY or GAL?' There are no unions here, no guarantee that there will be a raise or bonus come the end of the year. There is no pension fund. I know your answer. However; some of us like it; some of us do it to keep fit and healthy through exercise and so on. Others do it while trying to make a living. Still there are others who do it for a damn quick buck without any knowledge of what they are actually doing while lying and cheating their way through another Consumer. 

Do you really think they care on whether or not you are getting good wood for the money you charge? Think MIXED WOOD. Most people doing this kind of work on the side could not even consider the avenue of investing that amount of money for a month, let alone 6 to 12 month on the basic average. Sadly, most of the no name people selling on Kijiji and other places wouldn't even consider investing in 2 to 500 cords of wood and sitting on it until it sells. And why not is because most don't have the money to do it. That is because they are waiting for you and that BULLS EYE TARGET as you search and seek out the best deal. They really have your number. 

 In a way it is like the fellow wanting a new 4 wheel drive truck with a plow on the front. "WAIT HONEY? Let me buy this truck and plow? I can make a mint doing driveways in the winter. It will be tax free money." Right again. Wow! Been there, done that, got the repair bills and no money to prove it. I still have a 4 wheel truck with a plow; not to mention several tractors capable of plowing, but DO NOT plow for anyone. Me----I am retired. For me, the wood is merely a hobby and a means of exercise. Still, I will not do it for free. But REMEMBER THIS; many cutters will sell mixed loads of wood much cheaper to get it off their land and out  of their way as to let better wood grow. What a paper mill or lumber yard doesn't or cannot, will not process, finally ends up as going for chips to make aspenite and paper, or the other alternative - firewood. Whether it is Winter Firewood or Milled Spruce, Pine, Hemlock, Fir, White Birch or just plain GARBAGE WOOD, sooner or later make it into someone's stove for heat. How do you know that? You don't-----unless you have been buying MIXED WOOD. The easiest way to answer that is simply define it as.... MIXED WOOD or a DEAL!

Since the time I was a kid on the farm, I both liked and appreciated my time in the woods while working with wood. I learned that from my grandfather on my mother's side who was both a true woodsman and carpenter. Man, it is hard to believe that was 60 years ago. I choose to do it now because I know it, like it, want to, and hope people can enjoy the rewards of something positive by my education in this endeavour. The thing you have to do is ARM yourself as if going into battle. Know the talk before you learn the hard way. Become educated on wood in every aspect before you buy, you burn, and/or, possibly get burned. In my opinion, those who cut costs trying to make a buck are taking short cuts in that journey. Those people who buy cheap and crappy wood just add fuel to the fire, and continue the ritual. Simply put, get wise and have the journey fully explained before taking that trip to the local bank and passing over your hard earned money. I know that everyone still hopes and looks for a deal. I do as well. However, I learned that Good Wood is the answer. That is fine if you are getting a deal and good wood in the process. Unfortunately; the majority of people don't get the deal. The do get the shaft and there is not much at the bottom of the mine when this is finally realized. 

 Remember; this is no different than oil, gas or electricity in a manner of speaking. We are asked to trust those people in the process in billing and charging us for their product delivered. I mean----how do we know we are getting every kilowatt delivered and billed, every litre of furnace oil, propane, and/or gas? Are you always present? Better yet, how often are these devices checked by Governmental Agencies to ensure their accuracy? I doubt there is even a program in existence through the Government that Electric Companies have to adhere to, and done on a full time monitoring basis. I do see the odd sticker on gas pumps showing in some cases, once a year. However; how do we as the consumer know that they function correctly once repairs are made, or pricing changes come in affect? Better yet; where is it guaranteed that these were manually checked, dated, serviced, and are not a simply renewable sticker with a yearly fee attached? Remember; this is Nova Scotia and we do posses the landscape of political promises----the land where you get screwed on taxes and politicians and just about everything else from food to clothing. Why should you, me, or anyone be singled out, and/or, treated differently on wood? 

(10) How do I determine the cost of a cord of cut and split wood on delivery?
For me, and on the delivery, it is all pertaining to the distance from where I am located. All loads quoted from here will be based on one of the three loads being a two cord load, three cord load, and/or,  four cord load per trip basis. All calculations are done on cords verses mileage, and no matter how I look at it, the cost on any one of the three is virtually the same. There are no special deals or special fees; and I do pride myself on giving everyone the same price. By doing this, I do avoid issues pertaining to making side deals and specials. However; should I screw up on delivery quotes, I DO MAKE IT RIGHT and absorb it at no increased cost to the public. With the cost of wages, fuel forever rising and fluctuating in general, repairs, taxes, insurance, truck registration and time involved; for the quality of the wood I offer, and the long term in what I offer and sell, is a good package alone. 

Imagine yourself doing this! Head out to the local grocery store, big box store, or better yet, let's look at the gas pumps. Go inside and tell them you will give them  $75.00 for $100.00 worth of gas. On the other hand;  roll the dice and tell the local big grocery store (cannot name names) that you are prepared to give them $75.00 for that $100.00 of fresh meat for your BBQ----or the Big Box store $150.00 for that $250.00 flat screen TV. Just how far do you think you would get? Do you see the point? Why should it be different for anyone doing an honest and true wood business? You know what the other stores will say. Should the wood  producer, if he is doing you right by telling you the truth and being honest with you, be put through the grist mill? If he isn't fair and doesn't know his product; in this case being wood, I do suggest he is fair game. Not all of us are like that. On the other hand----you have to be both judge and jury. To do that, you best be learning about wood and the procedures involved.

I am based just outside of New Minas. This will only relate to areas considered to be in the mid-range of 75 miles to 100 from New Minas; while also taking in areas of Annapolis, Bridgewater, Halifax/Dartmouth, Eastern Passage, Maitland, some distances further, and all in between areas. I have made arrangements on distances further, and that option is still a feasable one. Regardless of where you live, it is important for you to give me complete and easy instructions to your home by the easiest route possible. Should you live outside of an area that I think would be unfair to you for delivery verses total wood cost, I will be honest with you and suggest someone more local or closer. And if I can help you find a producer who I think will treat you right, I will endeavour to assist you. 

(11) Yard cutting and pick-up:
I have chosen to distance myself from this due to an incident this summer. If you are coming here for wood, please make sure you DO HAVE ample equipment to transport. I will no longer bend the rules in assisting someone else to take chances on picking up wood here with inadequate equipment. In other wards, your transportation unit must be able to measure and cube to legally hold and transport one, two, three or a four cord truck, and/or, trailer load. I do reserve the option to measure and determine just how much your unit can legally hold and transport before loading you. Otherwise; I will be contributing to you bending, and/ or, breaking the law. That in itself would cause me concern, since I am expected to do it legally. If you get caught trying to do the impossible; whether legal or not, once you leave this yard the responsibility of what you are doing is totally yours.

(12) On Special Requests:  I have gone further distances than some of the areas posted based on the amounts of wood ordered and the reasons given. All areas are based on our mileage format per cord and is the same for everyone. When I indulge inside of the direct CITY AREAS of Halifax and Dartmouth, there is a slight surcharge due to the time involved, traffic, traffic lights, many streets and extra fuel consumed  All of my quotes are based on the general areas we travel, and final quotes are, and will be done by Email and direct contact on the telephone before any wood sales are contracted.

(13) What are the costs involved in cutting my own wood if delivered in 8 or 16 foot pieces?
Unfortunately, these cost can vary on how smart we are or on how ignorant we choose to be. Having cut my own wood with a power saw for many years, I realize it was both time consuming and costly for what I ended up with. No matter how you do the math, it all works out the same. There is much work and literally NO SAVINGS because a CORD UNPROCESSED is not a cord when PROCESSED by sawing, splitting and handling it.

Looking at the simple abbreviated forms since I removed the detailed analysis previously posted on this site; whether part time novice or serious cutter, it all works out like this in the end. If you buy an 8 cord truck load of BULK unprocessed wood, you may get 8 cords. However, looking at the true form of this, cut and split, it is just 68 to 70% of a true cord of 128 cubic feet when piled. So, paying for wood based on the following scale and prices as an example (which will be close to accurate) we can then decide how much the free work is really worth.

General cost of wood per cord @ $110.00 per cord delivered for mixed wood X 8      = $ 880.00 plus tax.
Average amount of gas and chain oil needed to process 8 cord = $9.12 X 8 cords    = $    72.96 plus tax  and do remember that I buy chain oil much cheaper than you by the 45 gallon barrel. 
Average-able time used to saw a cord manually = 1 hour @ 12.50 per hour X 8 cords =  $ 100.00
Using a wood splitter if you have your own, gas at 3 litres per cord  X 24L on @1.30  =  $    31.20
Average-able time per cord splitting and piling without problems 1.50 hr. per cord =12=  $  180.00
Wear and tear/chain sharpening per cord averages $2.50 per cord                               =  $    20.00
Total amount of work, money and value of wages as $12.50 per hour equals               =  $1,427.10

Based on this, and assuming you have the safety gear and ability to make repairs, your wood including taxes costs you $178.39 per cord now processed. Funny thing though, instead of 8 UNPROCESSED CORDS, you now have an average of 70% of the wood being between 5.2 and 5.6 cords averaged at 5.4 cords of processed wood cut, split and piled. What you ask - where did my 8 cords go? Welcome my good Watson, you are finally getting the picture. Wait, if I am only getting 5.2 to 5.6 cords, my cost on my wood is based on 5.4 cords and divided into the $1,427.10 my wood is....is....is damned expensive and now works out at  $264.28 per cord. so, how much money did you really save? Take the wages off and your cost is changed to $1147.10 or $142.39 per cord. However, in the end it still works out to 5.2 to 5.6 per cord, or 5.4 cords of wood cut, split and piled out at 128 cubic feet per cord.  Wait, let's take the time for wages off. So, 5.4 cords into the $1,147.10 will mean your WORK is free and if you didn't have to buy anything or rent anything, your wood now costs you $212.43 per cord. What is funny tho, is that you think you saved or are saving money. And at the end of the day you WILL STILL HAVE MIXED FIREWOOD and far from quality firewood.

And if you have to rent a splitter, buy one, a power saw or get help, these are inconveniences that add cost. But, and no matter how you cut it and at the end of the day, it is like this, you have a pile most likely of wet wood, MIXED FIREWOOD of who knows what multiple cuts because you are not good enough to make sure every cut is the same. On the other hand, if the wood costs you more, the costs are even higher. Now, what if the bulk purchase on measurement is not a full 8 cords as you thought? Wow, these costs are getting higher. What if you paid more than $110.00 a cord for your wood and still ended up with a mixed combination of trash? Go further my good friend Watson, do an average on cost, verses BTU values on the cordage you have. I chuckle because I have been here and unfortunately, my lessons learned cost me lost money through my own ignorance, made it expensive wood, several broken ribs and injuries due to a fall from the pile while cutting; and the lesson learned was simple. 'It is both easier and cheaper to buy the wood processed and be guaranteed the cordage rather than fight with the unknown until the task is complete.'

This was a 4 cord load being delivered at one 2 cord of Maple on the trailer and one 2 cord load of Black Poplar on the truck. Together as a unit they are legal and the cord count is proper at 128 CUBIC FEET PER DELIVERED LOOSE TO PILE OUT AT PROPER CORDAGE. 


#4. General Costs and Delivery Fees

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