6. Seasoning Wood, the Process/OVERVIEW.


My processor above and my monster tractor. Loaded trailer and truck I use.


JANUARY 15th, 2015 UPDATE: 

I am pleased to announce that we are now an ACCREDITED BUSINESS under the Nova Scotia Better Business Bureau as well as an ACTIVE MEMBER under the Firewood Vendor's Association of Nova Scotia also found under Access Nova Scotia.

Please check out what consumers say about my business and way I do things under the Nova Scotia Better Business Bureau under Customer/Consumer Reviews

WOOD ISSUE UPDATE May 28th, 2015. This noted below is very important to read. And once you do, take heed and DO THE MATH!

After receiving several calls this week about companies; and in general, wood sellers, some registered with the Registry of Firewood Vendors in Halifax and surrounding areas, and then after a conversation with Measurement Canada referencing the same, I am appalled at the response on the matter. Classified as being sold as a 'UNIT', this so called practice is way less than a proper cord by MEASUREMENT CANADA STANDARDS and Measurement Canada informs me that this is LEGAL, even though it is not a proper cord based on a STACKED CORD of 128 cubic feet. When I look at this, I see TWO STANDARDS here and sadly, YOU, THE CONSUMER, you are the ones being SCREWED ONCE MORE by the way of Government. We need CONTROLS - not people being allowed to change the rules or say, 'it is legal as long as the customer is told it is a UNIT or some other wording letting them know it is NOT a PROPER CORD, all in all, being sold 'LEGALLY LESS' than a cord and in the process of that, not using the words 'CORD or STACKED CORD' What the hell is wrong with people? And here I thought Measurement Canada wanted to make this an even playing field.

Having ONCE AGAIN checked Measurement Canada's site on Firewood, the following ARE NOT CONSIDERED AS LEGAL MEASUREMENTS pertaining to FIREWOOD. (Short Cord, Face Cord, Thrown Cord, Processed Cord (for which a UNIT CORD TRULY IS coming in between 85 to maybe 100 cubic feet), apartment cord and other amounts not listed and are TOTALLY ILLEGAL MEASUREMENTS in CANADA. So, my question is, why suddenly is Measurement Canada in Nova Scotia allowing this? In my books, it is allowing others a path to SCREW the consumer. So, be on your toes, always insist on a 'PROPER STACKED CORD AMOUNT, and above all, get your calculator out and do the math before ordering short cords as 'UNITS' or any other method of description. Remember, a guaranteed cord is 128 cubic feet. On a $300.00 cord, based on 128 cubic feet, that literally works out at $2.43 a cubic foot. On a 'UNIT'  sold, that becomes anywhere from $3.17 to $3.52 per cubic feet. So, WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF DOUBLE STANDARDS and GOVERNMENT. 


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In this section we will be dealing with the Seasoning of wood issue, and a general overview of some of the issues NOT covered in the first five sections. Some of these could be, and will be deemed as protective vices to give you more insight into wood and the equipment used in burning wood.

#6. Seasoning Wood, the Process, and much about stoves etc.

I Sell Tri-Maple Mix Hardwood cut & split @ $    .00 per cord.

NOTE: 

AVOID BUYING ANY FIREWOOD IN WINTER. MOISTURE IN WOOD BECOMES FROZEN AND WILL APPEAR AS SOMEWHAT SEASONED. WHEN, AND IF YOU CONSIDER BUYING WOOD AFTER NOVEMBER 15TH OF ANY YEAR, INSIST ON THE WOOD BEING MOISTURE PROBED IN YOUR PRESENCE TO AVOID BEING SCAMMED ON SOMEONE MAKING THE CLAIMS THEIR WOOD IS SEASONED. IF THEY CANNOT PRODUCE A WOOD MOISTURE PROBE AT THE TIME OF DELIVERY,  AVOID BUYING WOOD AND SAVE YOUR MONEY BECAUSE 9 TIMES OUT OF 10 THE WOOD WILL BE WET OR GREEN.


In life there are NO easy solutions. We try counteracting this by making intelligent choices by, and based on the facts that we get proper and clear direction in our search for the proper answers. As for what is right, and for what is wrong for the Property Owner, it is he, or she, who should be the one that is in charge of making the correct decision in life as by what his, and her family needs are.


Section #6 Summary
(1) What is seasoned wood
(2) What do I need to know to season wood
(3) Requesting the correct wood
(4) Addressing and burning with a Cast Iron and an Air Tight stove
(5) What is considered the best form of a wood burning stove
(6) Addressing the use of a Fireplace for heat
(7) Addressing the use of Bio-Bricks in your Stove or Fireplace
(8) General Tips For Safer Wood Burning
(9) Chimney Sweeps and Scams

For detailed costs & cordage comparisons on processing 8 and 16 foot wood yourself, please go to section #4 for a more detailed cost of 'DOING IT YOURSELF.'

(1) WHAT IS SEASONED WOOD and HOW CAN I TELL IF IT IS REALLY SEASONED?
If I am buying wood and the seller says it is seasoned wood, how can I be sure it is what he claims?
Are there any health concerns I should know about when I store unseasoned wood in my basement?

I want to address the issue of the third question first. Simply put, placing wet or green wood in your basement is asking for a multitude of problems. Aside from a breeding ground for infestation of many kinds, we have to address the direct link to Mold and Mildew. This practice can create mold in many ways because of the moisture and lack of fresh air circulation. Sadly, it CAN and WILL go through the whole house if the wood IS NOT SEASONED. This can cause multiples of breathing issues for infants, young children and the elderly. Not only that, but if you are using a dehumidifier with the idea of controlling the moisture levels, attempting to dry the wood with it, and solving your laziness for not piling the wood outside as any normal person, let it be known this is STUPID. Even with wood at a moisture rate of 15%, you can still have moisture that will inhibit the home if proper ventilation is not present at all times. In winter to ventilate the wood, it seems counter productive when you look at the heat loss and extra cold that ventilating this wood will require. Do it right and pile it outside as you should.

(2) WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW TO MAKE SEASONING WOOD SIMPLE?

To the untrained eye or unsuspecting buyer, unseasoned wood can be passed off easily as being seasoned. However, there are a few easy tricks to tell if it is seasoned. What is classified as seasoned wood by many is product from 1 month DRYING in Wind Rows or Loose Piles (depending on the wood and conditions) to  3 to 6 months. Unfortunately that is far from the truth. It is all about three things:
(1) Finding out when the wood was actually cut.
(2) Probing the wood with a Moisture Probe Device to ascertain the true moisture or water content still in the wood being contemplated or used.
(3) Knowing whether or not it is ONE SPECIES of wood or combinations called 'Mixed Wood.'
 A couple of the easiest ways to tell seasoned wood is by feel, smell, weight, density and colour. Even the sound of a seasoned piece is different from an unseasoned piece. However; the more dominant manner in which to learn if it is seasoned, is by the weight, whereas it is noticeably lighter than green. Remember this, any BTU's in Green Wood is wasted upon trying to utilize green wood as a burnable product because of the amount of HEAT consumed or used to burn the water content in the wood. There is little that can be done to change this outside of the drying process. This is where the use of a moisture probe meter is the most useful friend you have in determining just how much moisture is in the wood and how drastic the task can be to mane it burnable in a safe manner. 

As for the moisture probe meter, the ones I use are made by General Instruments and can be found on (Amazon .com ) To my knowledge, no one is selling them here in Nova Scotia and after research and trying several, I found these to be the best all around meter.

      Notice the center splitting and the bark lifting from proper seasoning. These are 6 inch round pieces and this wood has been Winter Cut in January and dried since April to October. That literally spells 7 months. Remember the key words here, 'Winter Cut Wood.' Green Cut, sap or Leaf Cut wood will not dry this quick. This is my wood and when the moisture level was taken, it was at 14%.



The feel again is another way distinguishing seasoned wood. When dry and ready for burning, the wood not only looks different from green or leaf cut, but actually feels different to the touch. Grab the wood and look at it well. If it is seasoned, the bark will be begin to lift on the edges and peel away from the inner shell of the wood. You will also notice cracks in the bark. A good piece of seasoned wood will almost allow you to peel about 50% of the bark without using anything but your fingers. Whether you are sure or not, peel back the bark and reveal the Cambium (it is the thin layer between the bark and the actual wood itself) which will either show moisture underneath or not. If not, it is on the path of not being classified as green wood. If the sap is there, or any type of moisture content, the wood is definitely not seasoned. DO NOT ALLOW ANY SELLER to try and convince you that it is rain water or dew. If it is wet and green under the bark, and there is a fair amount of water content present through not being dried properly, or worse yet, left out in the forces of nature, it is to be classified as unseasoned and green. 
Properly seasoned wood with the bark lifting and center cracking in the rings as I discussed.



If wood is being passed as seasoned and you think it may be green, peel the bark anyway. If you can't peel it with your fingers, chances are it is green. In doing so, you will clearly see the Cambium underneath. You should also be able to see and both feel the dampness. Further to that, if there is the stagnant smell associated with wet wood due to moisture levels, there will be a very good possibility that you will find bugs or larvae on a closer inspection. Though very small and minute as they may be, silver fish, and different forms of larvae may be present, and/or not yet developed. This is clearly defined in the section titled hazards in burning which is fully described in depth. If any of this is present, it is obvious that this is not seasoned wood. It should be classified as wood partially dried with moisture levels that are questionable. Whether or not it has been in  left out in windrows or heaps to hopefully dry as it was cut, or to the elements, there is still the seasoning process ahead of you. Remember this, wood that IS NOT PROPERLY AIR PILED and COVERED, will not dry. If it is not dry, it is money wasted since your Heating BTU's will be lost in moisture and lack of heat through energy. 

One must be careful in how wood is also loaded. Keep in mind that a crafty individual could damp load from the bottom of a wind-row pile on the bottom of the truck or unit, or pile previously cut, and/or split wood on top to give the seasoned appearance. In doing this, all of the water that DOES NOT evaporate; through gravity, sooner or later will make its way to the bottom of the pile. Taking from the bottom of a pile and then topping it with the same wood from the top of the pile, will give it a partly seasoned; or in some cases, the seasoned appearance upon delivery and increase the threat of insects and larvae.  This is a standard practice with many scammers. On the other hand, once he has your money and gone----he got the deal. 

When we address the colour of seasoned wood, keep in mind that it is usually dark on the ends, in the middle and really does not look or smell fresh. Should it smell fresh, chances are it is green. Normally, well seasoned wood does not have a smell. The weight is another issue whereas a dry piece will weigh almost 1/3 or less than that of a green piece of wood about the same size. For your own satisfaction, keep a few pieces of current seasoned wood on hand to compare when buying product advertised product as seasoned winter wood.  

The best one that I had seen was delivering a load of wood this summer to a couple in HRM. Well explained and understanding the explanation, he met me at the truck with a calculator, tape measure, several pieces of his last years wood and a set of weigh scales. Truthfully, it made me chuckle. On the other-hand,  he was one of the smarter ones who had been burned the previous year. Opening the truck box, I did invite him to measure and do as he chose. I even offered him the use of my Moisture Probe for which he was unfamiliar with. He did weigh the wood, measure the box and calculate the volume. Once satisfied we were on the same page, I probed the wood to find a moisture level at 32% being a bit lower than the 35% I had estimated on the phone. Both he and his wife were happy when I left. Being Wood Wise and also learning to be smart about wood is what this is all about. In the end, it spells safety.

 As for air stacking, loose stacking and covered piling, it too is simple. Air stacking is simply piling the wood, but doing it in such a way that one leaves about a foot between the tiers, and no higher than 3 to 4 feet in height. While piling the wood somewhat loose, rather than packed or piled tightly, it will allow for better drying. If it is later in the season, the weather is cooler since the  sun is not as warm as in summer,  use a height of 2 1/2 feet to 3 feet on a tier. This will allow for faster drying by not restricting air flow and moisture. This will allow more moisture to escape quicker because of the smaller height. Piling the wood tight will not allow the sun, wind and air to properly dry the wood. Circulation of air and the warmth of the sun is the key in seasoning wood quickly. Leaving space will allow it to dry quicker and cut the dry time by as much as 20 to 40% over three to six months based on the weather and type of wood chosen. Loose stacking is piling wood in simple rows of about 4 feet high and blocking sections in the middle of the tier to allow extra air to pass through. This will allow moisture to escape and will allow plenty of sun and fresh air to go throughout the pile. 

A friend of mine takes the long way around but swears he can season Spring Cut wood in about 16 weeks. He does have a good idea in what and how he does it. Nonetheless, I cannot see too many wood burning families piling their wood in tiers for two to three months and then tearing them down and re-piling them with the tops on the bottom and the bottoms reversed to the top. As Charlie says, 'I been doing it this way for over 30 years and it really works.' He also stores ALL OF HIS WOOD outside keeping it covered once the month of September rolls in. Personally, it is a smart move.

This is one of the covered 3 cord storage piles in my yard for winter burning. This cage has the sides, the back 90% enclosed and the front partially covered. The top is covered with a combination of weavex, plastic and double tarps. It is loose piled to allow air flow. Wood should be piled in this manner to avoid moisture build-up thru snow, rain and poor drying practices. As for what little snow you see present, it does not create a problem if the wood is dry. Perhaps to some it isn't pretty, but it is quite effective pertaining to my storage and convenience.



Tight piling; even though it is the best way to check the cordage on the load, will not allow the wood to dry as quickly as loose piling. Covered piling is good as long as you DO NOT do it while the wood is totally green. Heat and summer breezes will cause the moisture to evaporate quickly if left somewhat open. If you have the top of the wood pile or tiers covered with plastic, or something of that nature that air cannot exit from, you will be trapping a fair amout of the moisture under the plastic and still into the wood. This will defeat the purpose of drying and house moisture on top of the wood as it finds its way back downward. This could also create infestations due to the dampness created by the plastic. By doing this, the wood will sweat and in time cause mold, mildew ;and even soggy rot which in turn will create a lot of CREOSOTE on burning. Rot does not burn very easily and will turn to a crusty form that can interfere with good wood burning. There is a good possibility that it will increase different forms of infestation. It can also further the threat of unwanted wood insects who dwell on moisture and smell. One of the easiest ways to  cut down on this is to cover at night, or in rain, and then utilize the sun and breeze by uncovering it every day until it is dry. Once your wood is completely dry, then cover it tightly leaving only a small air opening at the bottom and the back of the pile. This will allow the wood to breathe and any moisture build up a way of drying out. 

Another good method of seasoning wood is a plain old woodshed. If it is being placed in a woodshed green cut, there should be also a vent in the roof, or as close to the roof as possible. This will allow the moisture to rise and exit through the venting. It is also important to remember to have a door open, so that both air and heat can pass through and move about. There is another method by use of a dehumidifier in a closed, but somewhat ventilated area. This I will not post as a means of drying green wood. It can also add to issues of infestation and humidity build up in a home. If you have done, or consider this method of saving time, remember that if done in the basement or car garage, it can result in smells and other issues that may not be a pleasant experience.  This could and would be a result of it not being done properly.

(3) Selecting the Correct Wood for you and your family:
In all honesty, this is as simple as buying the correct food for your families needs, the correct car for your family based on the safety, what you can afford, the needs for what you require, and the delivery of using good common sense. When choosing wood, it is difficult for many when we look at the convenience,  for some - the work, whether it is an auxiliary heat, main heat, or just a pleasurable night in front of a cosy stove or fireplace as you watch the embers flashing wildly through the glass.

It is important to understand the harder the wood, the more energy, best BTU's and heating in general can be realized. Hardwoods in general, like softwoods, all have different burning ratios. The same would apply to the seasoning aspect. On the other hand; and let's use the tires on your car as an example, why buy 2 sets of tires for $149.95 each plus installation, balancing and taxes that will last for 25 to 30,000 kilometres when you could spend another $50.00 and maintain a level of performance based on getting 50 to 60,000 kilometres? On the other-hand, why would someone spend the extra $50.00 for one set and hope that mixing the two, rotating them as required and checking the air pressure as suggested, would give you a better level of performance by mixing the two? Wood in essence is no different. Considering the issue of MIXED FIREWOOD, you are mixing that mileage on those tires and expecting more of a mileage ratio by combining what is not designed to function well and work together. Wood is the same, but different in density, seasoning and the delivery of energy from your stove as the wood is stoked. 

Why is it that some people season MIXED WOOD as regular hardwood, burn it together hoping that the best will happen on its own? It doesn't. Whether using mixed wood in general, or a combination of Oak, Maple, Spruce, Some of the White, Green or Yellow Poplar family, Beech, Alder Tree, White Birch or Yellow, it matters not to your stove. But it will matter when you curse the stove for NOT giving you the heat you want, burn about 40% more wood than you should,and most of all, take NO RESPONSIBILITY for making the WRONG DECISIONS when buying the wood to begin with. Yes, times are tough. Yes, money is tight. And yes, things cost more. But, and remember this, it is not the wood or the stove making the WRONG decisions.

Seasoning any of these combinations together will not work as a balanced drying and burning procedure. This is because of two important issues being the density of the wood and the moisture drawn content within the different forms of wood. On average, all firewood should be seasoned for about 6 MONTHS (as we try getting the moisture level to the acceptable range) as a minimum. Sadly, most of you ignore this. Buying green cut (leaf or sap cut spring, summer and fall) wood extends this format to a year for safe burn practices. You have to address the fact that LESS DENSITY in wood creates more CREOSOTE whether fully seasoned or not. If you DON'T eliminate the CREOSOTE on a regular basis (minimum of two cleaning per burn season - and yes....this is more money that you will spend) you stand the chance of fires or even worse. What can be worse than a fire? Simple; you, your family, your pets and everything you own being lost because you were stupid and greedy in trying to save a buck. No matter; and do keep in mind, that with any form of energy by means of burning, the FIRE HAZARD is always there if you do not pay attention and do preventative maintainence. The best method of this is by getting the correct wood and seasoning it properly before burning. It is important to grasp the most important objective about burning wood with too high of moisture content; since it takes a lot of heat (energy or BTU'S) to boil away the moisture in that wood, it will leave way less heat to keep the combustion process burning efficiently within the stove. Again so there is no confusion, this lowers burn temps therefore lowering the stove burn rate, the stove pipe rate, the chimney rate hereby increasing the threat of Creosote build-up.

Burning 'suck woods' as a friend of mine refers to Mixed Wood, Trash Wood and Line Cuttings or Line Cut Wood as sold by many cutters trying to make a fast buck, we need to be on our toes. When it comes to the Scammers, the Cheaters and Part-time pretenders to be wood people selling the combinations of  Line Cut Woods and passed over as junk such as White, Yellow, Green Poplar, Alder Tree, Softwoods as Pine, White Spruce, Hemlock and Fir, it is important to understand that they have a lower BTU value. They will burn almost twice as fast as Maple and Yellow Birch, and in the long run, these softer woods will produce more smoke, more sparks, and faster heat for a shorter period of time from 25 to as much as 50% in some cases depending on the quality and efficiency of the stove. When the faster burn rate occurs, the person controlling the stove has to use the damper more to slow the burn rate and avoid what is called 'OVER-FIRING or OVER BURNING'. With rapid or fast burning, this means that many of the combustible gases are being emitted too quickly from the wood all at once. By closing the damper or draft, it will reduce the air intake and will create another issue of NOT HAVING enough OXYGEN present in the stove to properly BURN all of the combustible gases. This will raise the likelihood of lowering the chimney temperature too low creating another issue of liquid tar and creosote build up. In the end, the fuel and BTU levels are wasted and will result in forms of unburned product and smoke. 

On the other side of the coin, when wood is SEASONED for too long of periods and ALL OF THE MOISTURE is removed, this does create two other issues of concern. Remember, that safe to burn and safe burning wood MUST HAVE some degree of MOISTURE content. Wood being too dry will set up the burn rate so that automatically it creates the issue that Combustible Gases  are emitted too quickly. As above, it creates the same scenario as burning cheap mixed wood, soft wood or line cut trash that many part-time, weekend sellers, SCAMMERS and CHEATERS thrive on. So you know, this is like playing 'Russian Roulette' with your stove and not the gun.


TAKING A SERIOUS LOOK AT STOVES, FIREPLACES AND SAFETY.

(4) Addressing and burning with an 'Air Tight' Stove:
This section is simple. It is all about learning bout the process and having the ability to understand the stove and what it is capable of if use properly and with proper firewood.

With today's technology, we all want to think efficient and price. One has to consider one important comparison as well as the fact of 'utilizing common sense'. With the use of and air tight stove, we have to look at the issue of increased smoke when it comes to burning. Being an air tight stove, the process of slowing the burn rate does create concerns in the disposal of the combustion gases. Realizing this, one HAS TO LEARN that when slowing the rate as above written, unburned smoke, dispersal and exiting of combustible gases and wasted fuel for the lower generated heat does create this issue of increased creosote due to the lowered burn temperatures. The real question is, is the air tight stove a better stove? Used properly, by all means. I use two here in my house and one in my tractor garage. It is all about applying the common sense in the Seasoning of wood procedures, correct wood, good burning habits and above all, learning the correct way to use draft to avoid back-puffing. What is back-puffing? Back puffing is the direct result of smothered billows of smoke due to the lack of proper oxygen flow  that are emitted from the wood stove  which is caused by  the IGNITION of the BUILD-UP of the inside combustible gases contained in and below the wood in the firebox. 

They are defined as 'Small Explosions' in the stove that will force puffs of smoke into the room through any possible loose gasket around the door, draft opening, any gap or loose fitting section of the exit stove pipe and stove in general. The biggest cause of this condition pertaining to the use of the wood itself is the combinations of reduced air flow, firewood that is too dry, firewood that is split too small  and being mixed with larger wood. This, therefore creates a situation where some of the wood burns too rapidly in comparison to the larger wood. The gases will be collected and will find their way into the coals and finally, under the wood in the firebox. As the oxygen enters the firebox, and the level of the oxygen is high enough to ignite the gases - they do ignite, and poof, the back-puffing happens. KEEP IN MIND that this can also happen on opening the door to put wood in the stove if the draft suffocation is too low adding to this problem. That could be very dangerous in itself by a couple of things happening as Blow-Back and a splurge of sparks being either sucked up through the pipe into the chimney and with the case of Back-Puffing, they sparks could be sent into the open area of the room where the stove is situated. As before, it is important to KEEP all flammable things as curtains, fabric furniture and wood clearly out of the path of the stove by safe distances. Also keep in mind that these situations can ALSO ignite creosote or any liquid tar formations if the gases are too hot and exit too quickly through the actual pipe into the chimney. 

On an 'Air Tight Stove', much like a fireplace, it is equally important to remember that the damper MUST remain somewhat open to exit or allow the smoke to vent. If not, you could be smelling it inside of the house due to suffocation, wind pushing into the chimney casing a Blow-Back situation and while happening, it could be adding to any creosote formations that could be also ignited by a fast or hard burn. You also have to keep in mind that stoves, just like fireplaces will end up taking their total draft from within the house. If this occurs, you will have what is called a 'NEGATIVE EFFICIENCY' as the warm inside air is sucked into the stove and up through the chimney therefore dropping the temperatures in the house. Sadly, we don't think of this so we then add more wood to the EXISTING situation without changing anything. 

Cast Iron Stoves are somewhat a 'THING' of the past. Outdated in many aspects, they are very prone to leaking as they age. I know, I had two. Many times what is promised in brochures are far from real facts once the stoves are used for a season or so. When it comes to the issue of 'OVER FIRING'; and this will happen both from time to time and as the stove it utilized, it is generally reduced to the quality of these stoves from 10 to 30 years past. When the issue of the required seasoned wood s used, the needs for the air intake to be great, we quickly reduce the quality of these stoves to the past generation of how they were built. Sadly, they can require as much as 25 to 50% more wood to rate in the combustible needs to equal the qualities and performance of the Air tight replacement. They will burn hotter and as they do, not only will they retain the heat longer, the hot temperatures will reduce their quality quickly. Most not being repairable other than cement in the opening seams, they will permanently lose their temperature control, lose the length of the expected overnight burn and lose their ability to properly burn the smoke and exit it through the pipe and chimney due to the opening seams and stressed cast.  

On average, most Cast Iron stoves will have between 8 and 12 cemented seams that in the case of 'Over Firing' will begin to become brittle as they crumble allowing small seam cracks to appear. MINE DID ALL OF THIS. When this happens, we have a draft situation, fumes escaping and heat and the burn process suddenly challenged. The door hinges are another poor feature, as it the door gaskets allowing excessive air to leak into the stove as the fire burns. This reduces heat, burn times and requires more wood to make up the downfall of performance. This will also cause air intake loss therefore creating a loss of the firebox vacuum. This will then stop the flow of the combustion air and the smoke fuel is will go unburned. Looking at the overall efficiency, again I stress the numbers of 25 to 50%. Unfortunately, repairing them (been there and done that one) and continually cementing them makes the stove cost you more than it is worth. 

(5) What is considered the best form of a safe wood burning stove:
Taking a Cast Iron Stove out of the picture, we address the steel combustion unit. Anyone in the market for a good stove in today's world, should automatically REJECT a stove with a thickness level (I am not into metric) 1/4 inch. The best type stove (and I have three) to look for is what is classified as a UNI-BODY seamless stove. these are Factory press stoves moulded and NOT WELDED in the corner seams. Whether the legs are steel or cast matters little. However, steel will not be as brittle if the stove is moved in the form of dragging or bumping it. Also, steel is repaired easily and much cheaper. The doors are a concern whereas finding one with the gasket thickness of (5/8 of an inch to 1" inch) would be best. These gaskets when worn are inexpensive to replace and I do suggest buying extra when purchasing or owning a stove. When looking at the ceiling retainers and combustion tubes, they really should be constructed of stainless steel for a longer life of the unit. This is one of the most important areas of the stove and it should be explored very well and clearly understood before buying. If the salesman CANNOT answer and back the answers up with the manufactures brochure, look for the door. He obviously doesn't know his product. 

Looking at some simple common sense here, we will challenge two pieces of wood the same kind and weighing differently. Why differently you ponder? That is simple whereas of the density and moisture levels in the wood. Keep in mind that a 'pound of water' is a pint or two pints to a quart. that means a quart of water in your wood that is unseasoned is 32 ounces and you are expecting your stove to both burn it and give you heat. Now what seems inappropriate here? When you undermine the working ability of the stove here, you automatically cause problems in many ways. Remember, no matter who sells you wood off of the truck (unless kiln dried) it will not be properly seasoned. On average, proper seasoning can take 1 to 2 years. This is why I have written to think ahead by a year, plan ahead for the same and NEVER BUY and BURN MIXED WOOD off of any truck.

If you address the simple rules of common sense, use properly seasoned wood, DO NOT BUY or USE MIXED WOOD, the following things will apply in a positive money saving manner:
(1) You will use much less wood.
(2) You will carry less wood
(3) You will remove less in the form of burned ash
(4) You will cause less mess
(5) You will increase burn times
(6) You will qualify your home with more even heat
(7) You will have less smoke
(8) You will have a quicker heat ratio to all areas of the home
(9) You will have less creosote build-up.
(10) You will spend less for wood buying quality wood a year ahead and properly seasoning it.

(6) Addressing the use of a Fireplace for heat and the Fireplace Insert:
Last, let us look at the 'Fireplace' in general. Overall, burning wood in a fireplace to HEAT you home is both INEFFICIENT and a WASTE of GOOD WOOD and  your MONEY. This is because the greater wealth of the value in wood will be lost pertaining to heat as it quickly rises up the chimney. I have two fireplaces in my home and I DO NOT use either for heat. Here, the odd time it is used for simple silly things as roasting some marsh-mellows and a few hot dogs if I have the uncontrollable urge to have a few hot dogs rather than fire up the BBQ in winter. I do remember when I took the Propane Furnace out of my house because of the cost of propane, and installed oil back on December 17th, 1986. I went with out heat, other than the two fireplaces for five days because some dimwit shipped my furnace without the burner attached. All in all, I swear I burned close to a half a cord of wood in that five days. Sadly, the heat in the house was almost nil as the temperature inside upstairs was NEVER above 40 degrees Fahrenheit  I planted myself directly in front of the fireplace doors for most of the time and on the third to fifth nights, I literally slept there on the sofa to keep warm. Both of my fireplaces are in a brick wall about 8 feet long by almost 8 feet high. What concerned me the most was the actual heat I could feel on the bricks and in the back wall in my office here BEHIND the wall. It concerned me. Burning the amount of wood I did while trying to get heat, keep the pipes from freezing in the basement where the water pump was located, and maintain a level of common sense escapes me now as I write this.  

Fireplaces are without a doubt  a great mood maker in setting the scene for romance. We all dream of that nice bear rug in front of the fireplace, flickering candles as the luminous glow dances off of the walls and ceilings, soft music with a nice glass of wine while you enjoy it all with someone close to you. WOW.....this is beginning to sound really great. Nonetheless, they literally are totally inefficient in heating the home. Let's explore the open brick or masonry fireplace as most homes have. Did you know that the efficiency rating in heat value if from 1 to 15 Per-Cent depending on the type and its operation? Wow....that much. well, you could have fooled me in 1986. I think mine were lucky if it actually did reach the one percent plateau.  

From there, it quickly worsens. If the fire is low, the damper left open, a fireplace can have a 'negative efficiency.' Wait - didn't I say this before. again, it will draw from the Warm Air in the room and poof, like Santa, up the Chimney it goes as the room cools. We can seal off the damper when the fireplace is not burning and save some of the heat. However, burning, this is defeated by again the loss of room air. Heat functions opposite as to gravity whereas heat rises and cold air falls. This is why floors are cold and ceilings are warm. Imagine heating your house with wood and your upstairs tenant with electricity. did you know that you will cut his heating bills by 25% on electricity. Think about it for a moment. 

We can combat escaping heat another way by using a a few tricks with common sense. Install a heat shield to cut down on the amount of room air being pulled into the fireplace. This will cut down on 15 to as much as 25% heat loss. On the second one; and do take precautions if doing it, glass doors should remain open. there are many open faced fireplaces with spark shields that get the job done safely and do produce heat. You must keep in mind that when the glass doors are closed, the heat is considered as a form of Radiant Heat.  When the doors are closed, they literally deflect the Radiant Heat back into the fireplace and greatly reduce the heat output into the room. In my fireplaces here at home, there is a metal mesh closable covering so that when the doors are open, sparks and ashes are deflected back into the fire pit. These do cover the total opening of the firebox or wood chamber. Also keep in mind that improper wood stoves and fireplaces can pollute 15 to 20 times more than CSA rated and certified units.

As for the FIREPLACE INSERT, it is actually a form of a metal wood stove designed to fit inside of the fireplace cavity. Having a qualified installer is necessary. If not, you could be opting for major headaches with both safety and the Insurance company. Remember tho, wood is not unsafe. It is Us that set the example on stupidity. Some of us literally glow in it. Nonetheless, before considering one, do have a qualified and licensed technician check your fireplace, exiting chimney for hairline cracks in the liners and the overall quality for use with wood. remember, WOOD burns hotter than other fuels. Before installation, do make sure it is properly cleaned and properly inspected. Also, do make it a point to notify your Insurance company of the decision so there are no hidden issues for later down the road. Most likely on wood you will have an additional surcharge. 


How efficient it is depends on the room, the quality of wood, the chimney and the overall equipment you have chosen. Do your homework before making any FINAL decisions. Remember, most salesmen have all the answers. However, the key is asking the questions that they DO NOT have the answers for. If they baulk on a question, or simple try to avoid the question, best take it as a hit. No matter, do get ALL GUARANTEES and confirmed facts in WRITING and on ANY QUOTES or WORK, do have it well in place, finalized in price before work begins. If not, this will create other issues. One should also be inquiring on the effect your decision makes toward the environment. 

Please find enclosed a scale of facts based on Relative Emissions of fine Particles emitted into the atmosphere. These are based on U.S. studies and test. No matter American or Canadian, it is a guide and something to consider. This is based on Average Emissions (lbs/mmbtu's of heat output) for the different heating sources available for out homes.
(1) Fireplace = 28.0
(2) Uncertified wood stove = 4.6
(3) Certified Wood stove = 1.4
(4) Pellet stove = 0.49
(5) Oil Furnace = 0.013
(6) Gas Furnace= 0.0083

The lessons here are simple;
(1) USE Good Wood and not being that of a MIXED WOOD nature
(2) Properly seasoned wood
(3) Properly maintained stove, fireplace and chimney
(4) Using the correct fuel and heating apparatus for your needs
(5) Reading and Learning the owners manual for your stove (if you don't have one, do find one).
(6) Avoid burning UNSEASONED wood
(7) Using a Moisture Probe in your wood several times a week on average to check moisture levels

(7) Addressing the use of Bio-Bricks in your stove and fireplace.

I have spent countless hours researching this product. What I have found is numerous complaints about the damages to stoves and manufacturers NOT ACCEPTING responsibility on backing their Warranties. Issues from Continual Window Glass staining from the smouldering bricks on the burn process, damage to the Catalytic tubes and the big concern being Over-Firing brought on by the extra heat that apparently can be an issue through damaging the stove and/or fireplace in general.

I have check on many different places and found much the same information from the Manufacturers that use of them will VOID manufacturers warranty. Personally, I have always had qualms about products that are man mad and this one being no different. It reminds me of the issue where people have burned aspenite in their stoves and other products that have man made resins and glues in them. They manufacturers of the Bio-Brick boast of the small amount of moisture being from 0 to about 8%. Sadly, does anyone not care about how dry the air in their house from heating with a moisture content that low? I would be concerned. Any good wood that is properly SEASONED will burn both efficiently and will produce good clean heat. However, that comment would NOT INCLUDE mixed wood.

What I do think is that people have to realize that wood stoves are built to heat by using wood. So, in my opinion, should the makers of Bio-Bricks want to sell them, they should develop there own stove so that people do not have to take chances with an unproven product for the stove or fireplace that they are planning to us. I mean - the pellet people build their product around having the correct stove for the product being sold for the intended use. My advice to anyone considering Bio-Bricks in their stove, buying them for the use in their existing stove or fireplace, should be getting WRITTEN guarantees from the sellers that they will be responsible for any and all damages to their stove or fireplace by use of a MAN-MADE PRODUCT. If they are unwilling to guarantee you that in writing, what would you want their product not knowing if your stove or fireplace is both compatible and safe to burn these bricks.

One of the things people should look at, is that making these Bio-Bricks is taking prime hardwood away from people who rely on old fashioned firewood for heat and in turn will be making it way more expensive for the stove owner. On top of that, the Bio-Bricks are darn expensive in comparison to wood. As for work, keep in mind that you have to go to the store to buy them, drag them home, or pay someone extra to do it. It still involves carrying and different time consuming related work. Considering the extra cost in gas, time for you to go to the store, best you be adding this to your costs as well as the possible damage factor to your stove or fireplace.

(8) General Tips for Safer Wood Burning:

(a) As for the wood you are purchasing, have purchased, or may choose to cut yourself, cut it to the proper length you feel will give you the best overall BTU rating for the burn you want. A simple lesson is to make sure the wood is usually cut about three (3) inches shorter or narrower for the direction of the firebox that you intend to use. 
(b) Once you determine the correct length for your needs; whether buying it or cutting it yourself, split the wood making sure it is no larger than six (6) inches overall whether left round, or if jaggedly split. Either way, this will cut down on any creosote deposits by too slower of a burn process. Having the wood split well in ADVANCE of burning will increase the exposure to air and will improve the drying process quicker.
(c) It is important to check and verify the moisture content in the wood that you are buying or cutting. If you are buying it, set a goal of less than 40% on a purchase program if you intend to burn it the first year. If so, remember that you will need to obtain and process the wood for approximately 8 to 16 weeks if the range is between 30 to 40%. Anything higher, the Restricted Moisture Levels will not season enough in a lesser time period for safe burning. The average moisture goal is between 15 to 25%, but an best average is around the 20% level for safe and trouble free burning without creosote issues from restricted moisture. 
(d) Stacking the wood outside for drying is the best method for successful seasoning within one heating season. In doing so, the best method is to consider buying Winter Cut Wood. In doing so, NEVER BUY it from anyone if the moisture content when Probed is over 35%. Most winter cut wood (depending on the density of it; and remember....stay away from MIXED FIREWOOD COMBINATIONS) should probe on the average of about 28 to 33% or rule of thumb being 30%. As for the stacking, always allow 6 to 8 inches between the piles or rows and never exceed four (4) feet high on rows. This is essential for air flow and moisture evaporation. Stacking in alternate directions with the sides of the wood facing the sun as much as possible is the best manner. Avoid shade and over hanging things as trees and garage roofs.
(e) Storing the wood you buy or cut off of the ground is essential in avoiding insects, ground moisture and restricted air flow. I use pallets to get the best all around movement of air. Remember that moisture is a gravity issue if there is no air flow under the wood. If pallets ARE NOT an OPTION, build a small platform from 2 X 4's or 2 X 6's with some cross pieces to pile your wood on. NEVER PILE IT ON THE GRASS, GROUND, or PAVED DRIVEWAY if you want it to dry properly.
(f) When I leave my wood outside, I build a temporary structure closing in the sides and top while leaving an air hole in the rear and the front. Whether wet or dry, it is important to remember that the wood has to breathe because of the always present threat of moisture. If using such products as a tarp, vapour barrier plastic, or some other form of covering the top and sides, it is important NOT TO CLOSE in the sides as to trap moisture. If covering it at night, uncover it in the daytime to allow any existing moisture to escape. As for covering, in the fall months one has to realize that NOT COVERED at night, the night moisture can do more damage than the issue of rain itself because of the heavy dew content.
(g) Wood with the moisture content not probing properly in the percentage of the area as needed, should be left to burn in the following year. Sadly, many people ignore this and burn it anyway. This is far from smart and playing with danger. I cut my wood ahead and let it sit until the second year before burning. I understand not all find that economical. Still, it is the best and safest option. 
(I) When buying wood, make it a point to try and have your wood purchased and delivered before June if possible. NEVER BUY WOOD WITHOUT the use of a MOISTURE PROBE. I do carry one on my trucks. I know many of us find that difficult with winter bills, the left over Christmas expenses and so on, but doing this will ASSURE you a better and longer drying period if you so choose to burn your wood the first or same year as being purchased. However, smart money DOES NOT BUY Sap Cut, Leaf Cut, Spring and Summer Cut wood with the intention of burning it safely the same year. Remember, wood takes 16 to 24 weeks to dry at the peak drying times, and for that to happen, proper cutting, splitting, sizing and one kind of wood will be the best and only step in the correct direction.


(9) Chimney Sweeping and Being Scammed On Work:
 Not being a licensed technician, I had planned NOT TO COMMENT on this area. However, on recent months, and the past year, many people have written me on this and asked questions that I feel should be addressed since the wood, stoves and seasoning in this section do work together. THE LESSON IS SIMPLE. Never allow anyone in your home, on your roof or to inspect any part of the stove or facility without them producing a valid certificate issues by the Province or where you live. If you have ANY DOUBTS, call the inspection division and check on both the name and validity of the complete license. Also, remember that THEY MUST SHOW a proper form of liability insurance to be both on and work on your property. If not; and should they fall from the roof or anything else, you CAN BE HELD responsible for their injuries.

What happens it this. People will claim to be what they aren't to get into your pocket book. One of the well known scammers in HRM area selling wood under multiples of false and no legal-named had been volunteering to inspect chimney's for free. Remember, NO ONE does anything in this world for FREE when it comes to services.  He has been doing this with the idea of getting into your pocket book. Selling wood under false names and NON-LEGAL NAMED OPERATIONS in screwing people over on wood sales, cordage and services, he is a prime example on why Policing agencies post warnings. 

Once allowed into your home, you are passing too much personal info. They pose as Professional Chimney Sweeps and in the end will suggest different wood, companies, and tactics that are totally questionable. In the process, they do advise the home owner that major work is required to make the chimney and burning procedure safe once again. Sadly; and some home owners have agreed to have work as this done, the home owner is presented with an excessive bill for work not really needed, minimal work done in nature, and most not complete. Suddenly, you are playing Russian Roulette again. 

Some of the things to beware of that the SCAMMERS will do are as follows. You are initially contacted through a wood source or reference. He offers to clean your fireplace and chimney for $30.00 to $50.00. Sounds good. I have two flues. You think this is a good deal. So, you book the work to be done. Arriving, he takes a quick look inside and then from the roof. In a few minutes you are being informed that your chimney has been neglected and not properly serviced from the last time. You think and ponder the idea. He continues with comments like, 'I can't remember when I saw a chimney this dangerous and waiting for a fire to happen. I am amazed you and your family have not been killed by the amount of carbon-monoxide poisoning and creosote build-up.' You sweat. Suddenly, you feel that maybe you have been lucky. He continues by saying, 'normally this is a $1,500.00 to $2,000.00 job. However, I have a couple of days of slack time and can do it for $250.00 if you pay cash.' You think, 'oh rapture - oh joy. You are truly getting a deal.'

This all makes you want to get it done on the spot and not wait. You do. Suddenly, he shows up with a flash-light, a few brushes, some broom handles taped together, what appears to be a special vacuum with a long hose and some rags. He goes to work. Less than an hour later; blackened face and hands, he comes to the door and says, that will be $375.00 please. you are angry. He clarifies the point that he ran in a few problems not noticed before and he repaired them. angry, you do pay as somewhat agreed. Sadly, you have just been screwed over by a Scammer. 

For the record, on ANY WORK to be done, once the qualified technician is proven, DO have the estimate well documented, get a second opinion, and on any work done, MAKE SURE that the invoice is clearly itemized for the work and procedures carried out. All of this should include the Companies name, proper business location, contact names and phone numbers, and verification to the BBB and Registry of Joint Stocks to make sure this individual and/or business is truly legal and without complaints. It is unfortunate, but we live in times where people DO NOT care about doing things properly and seek CRIME as an option. Whether Scamming you on Wood, Cheating you by misrepresentation's, and or posing as someone they aren't, it is important for you to verify and make sure of whom you are dealing with on all fronts.

For more information on this in HRM, please go to or visit:
visithttp://www.halifax.ca/police/FraudAwarenessMonth.html
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PLEASE IGNORE THE INFO from here down. It is transferred items with no home and/or extra info repeated.


HOW LONG WILL WOOD THAT IS CUT AND SPLIT, LAST?
This is very simple. If it is good wood, green when you get it and you season it properly, you can get as much as 2 to 4 years out of it depending on where and how you store it outside. Inside, it can be as much as 7 years. but, the downside would be no moisture and it would burn quicker for that reason. This is based on keeping it in a dry place where air can get to it. It is also based on it being cut fresh and properly seasoned. To me, FRESH is what has been discussed in another section and HAS NOT been laying around so bugs, larvae, moisture, water, mildew and rot become part of its landscape. Remember this; it is important to know the source of your wood and everything about it possible before bringing it into the home. If not, there is no telling as to what you may get. 

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A FIRM COMMITTMENT ON PRICES:
PLEASE ACCEPT THIS AS MY WORD THAT I DO NOT NEGOTIATE ON PRICE. I HAVE ONE PRICE AND IT IS THE SAME FOR EVERYONE. My mileage charge is based on the cost of operations, time and travel, and is all CALCULATED on a total cost on the operation itself. Whether the trucks are diesel or gas, (diesel being more efficent) it doesn't matter. If they are able to properly haul the wood sold and give you the cord count tendered, the mileage charge is more than worth the cost of GOOD WOOD. Remember this--- Good Wood will heat you better, longer and with less long term maintainence.

FURTHER TO THIS; AT THIS TIME THE ONLY DISCOUNT AVAILABLE THROUGH ME IS THE FACT THAT I DO NOT CHARGE TAX  ON MY WOOD. ON TOP OF THAT, IT IS NOT THE PLAN IN THE FUTURE TO CHANGE THAT POLICY.  Based on that, please understand that if no tax is charged TO YOU, there IS NO QUALIFYING for the Government Rebate ON HEATING in Nova Scotia.





We have covered much of (H) to (M) throughout the sections combined. A good read will educate you on much that you don't know about wood.
HOW CAN I GET THE BEST BARGAIN ON MY WOOD?
This is one of the toughest to address whereas everyone is looking for a deal. This isn't about saving $5.00, $10.00, $20.00 here, or $40.00 there. This is all about you learning about wood, procedures, trick and things that happen. One important lesson I have learned over the years is this, 'You Get What You Pay For.' REMEMBER THIS WHEN BUYING WOOD-----PEOPLE OFFERING WOOD DEALS ARE  DOING IT FOR A REASON. People maintaining a good business practice and operation with wood will deal with: 
(a) Quality Wood.
(b) Even Pricing.
(c) No adjustment on pricing to make a deal. 
(d) Proper Cuts.
(e) No Gimmicks.
(f) A Proper Name, Address and Contact Info.

Do we get that thrill at the pumps or grocery store when we say, 'Let's Play-----LET'S MAKE A DEAL?' No! But, and for argument sake; imagine when you get the so called 'BOGO DEALS' at the big grocery store. Did you ever consider the mark-up for them to do that? Again-----this is called Hidden Pricing. Come on----get realistic! No BUSINESS gives ANYTHING AWAY FOR FREE. Can you see N.S. Power giving you a free month of electricity because you bought power from them for the previous 11 months OR 5 OR 10 YEARS? I mean----wouldn't it be nice to buy power for 11 months and then get the BOGO on the last month each year? Hell yes----SIGN ME UP! NO!!!!! IT IS SOMETHING YOU NEED. IT IS A SERVICE PROVIDED THAT THEY HAVE A MONOPOLY ON. They are no different from the Grocery Chains who both control and set prices without any Government Regulation other than on milk to my knowledge. Government has made us, The Consumers, the True Victims. The Grocery Giants are the ones who both own the wholesaling businesses and that do control pricing. I am not picking on these businesses, but I am merely pointing out the things we DO NOT think about and take for granted. 

So-----let's look at the wood business? Who in their right mind is going to give you; a stranger, a deal, free delivery and more wood than what you really should be getting in that 'So Called Deal'? NO ONE!!!!  Simply put; this is about what is best for you, your family and the safest wood burning experience possible. The issue of a deal should not even be in the conversation. It should be about the best quality in wood THAT WILL BURN THE LONGEST and THE SAFEST. It should be about BTU quality and for you to buy for the absolute best heating results possible. 

I get calls and Emails here all the time and asked if we can beat someone elses price. To those people I answer simple. I don't try, and am not interested in playing the bargaining game. I don't wage one person against the other by trying to beat anyone's prices. I have the same price on wood for everyone and offer the same quality, the same cuts and the same types of wood; JUST NOT MIXED WOOD. The biggest choice you have to make with me is the choice of thickness in cut and size that you want. I have lost business because I do not sell mixed hardwood and play the pricing game. For me, this is about giving you the best wood for the money you want to spend and can afford. Remember this; a bargain could get you split wood of all different cuts, sizes and types like the chap in the next paragraph. Simply put; who has control in this situation? It is the SELLER, and/or, the BUYER being you? YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BOTH BUYING, AND GETTING UP FRONT. BEYOND THAT-----YOU NEED TO KNOW THAT AT ALL TIMES. If not, you are just wasting your hard earned money. 

I had a customer call me from Eastern Passage in August requesting a quote price on 4 cords of Maple. After a brief discussion, he established that with the freight it made the wood expensive. He then furthered that by saying that he could get winter hardwood in his area for close to half the amount quoted. Whether I believed him or not wasn't the issue. To me it really didn't matter. When he asked for a deal, I said no. He never liked the response and abruptly hung up. ((((This was much like a gentlemen in the Windsor area who....and I quote, 'Come on Frank, if I buy 6 cords, I'm sure you can sharpen your pencil and give me a better price.' Politely, I told him no. I furthered this by saying that my price on wood and deliveries were the same for everyone and that I didn't play the pricing game. He quickly replied: 'You missed out on a good customer here.' and the line went dead.))))

Going back to the fellow in Eastern Passage; I did tell him that if he felt comfortable with the wood in his own area, then that was the best thing for him to do. Nonetheless; he should really be sure of the wood, the source and the quality before tossing money around on a deal. The same gentleman called me in October and asked me to bring two cords of Maple. He disclosed he had made a dreadful mistake and was very disappointed in the wood he bought. I was reluctant at first, but I did agree and made the trip. He paid the same as everyone else for the wood and transportation. While there, he showed me the four cords he bought for the money he saved at that time. He asked my opinion on what I thought about the wood that the other business delivered. There were cuts from 12 inches to 20 inches. There was also a mixture of Maple, White Birch, Green Poplar,  Spruce and some Alder bush wood. He saved money at the time as he calculated it. He quickly realized that when he piled it, there were no four cords of wood. With all of the staggered cuts, it was not his chimney that the smoke on the missing wood was going up. 

My concern was the issue of no BTU value in what he had purchased to burn. The other issue was the mixture of what the wood really was. He asked if it would be better to burn it with what he got from me. I told him no whereas mine was green in September and it should be dried before attempting to burn the Maple.  The idea when he ordered it, it was for the upcoming year. So, he decided to change his plans and wanted to do what he shouldn't. I did share a couple of quick methods on drying if he could put it in his garage with the aid of a fan and dehumidifier. As for how he faired out, I didn't ask. But I was pleased that he ordered another 6 cord of Maple early December for May 2012 delivery. I guess this was my answer.



LAST BUT NOT LEAST........WE LOOK AT THE ENVIRONMENT.
What affect can the wood I burn have on the environment? If we look at this in a sensible way, we know that burning wood causes smoke. However; with the efficiency of stoves today, the chimney properly installed and the wood properly seasoned, fires can burn with virtually very little smoke. How does wood burning affect climate change? Again, if you look at wood in the proper way, it is a Carbon Neutual method of heat. Actually, almost 100% if we did not have to add in the chain saws, processing machines and harvesters. These machines and deforestation are the bigger concerns. Nonetheless; I don't see us going back to the days of the Pilgrims and doing everything in the time method and back breaking manner as it was. There is, and has been a population explosion since then. Many new methods of heat are on the market including pellet stoves, heat pumps, natural gas; along with some of the standards of oil, electricity, propane and coal. Just a thought; but did anyone ever hear of the Sydney Tar Ponds? Wait a second.......do I remember something about coke ovens, coal and whatever? Wait....doesn't Nova Scotia Power still burn coal? However; did you ever consider how much polution is added back into the atmosphere through the cost of producing these forms of heat, energy and burning them; more-so than wood itself? You should. We are the ones who breathe it. In time we will be leaving all of our messes and headaches to the children not yet born. Yes----these will be the children of your children.Wow! Something great to remember us by.

In all fairness to you, to me, and to the children coming into the world and growing up, and/or  anyone out there who do not know the ins and outs about wood; research it. You might be surprised on some of the things you could learn if you just took the time. Come the end of the day, it is like buying lobster. Would you sooner buy them fresh and alive, or are you one of the people who prefer them dead and cooked? I bought them cooked once and damn near died. Why? I have no idea. Perhaps it was because at the time, lazy had a meaning called convenient. I would assume they were cooked when dead or partially dead, or perhaps even spoiled. Either way, never again. As for me, I like to buy them alive and see what I am eating. As for my wood, I like to buy it green, cut it myself, season it and KNOW what the heck I am burning. You should too. And remember this, if you don't----there is no one to blame but yourself.


   
d2b@xcountry.tv
frankrhynosvalleyfirewood@xcountry.tv



Items to add!



How do I determine the cost of a cord of cut and split wood on delivery?
For me, and on the delivery, it is all pertaining to the distance from where I am located. All loads quoted from here will be based on one of the three loads being a two cord load, three cord load, and/or,  four cord load per trip basis. All calculations are done on cords verses mileage, and no matter how I look at it, the cost on any one of the three is virtually the same. There are no special deals or special fees; and I do pride myself on giving everyone the same price. By doing this, I do avoid issues pertaining to making side deals and specials. However; should I screw up on delivery quotes, I DO MAKE IT RIGHT and absorb it at no increased cost to the public. With the cost of wages, fuel forever rising and fluctuating in general, repairs, taxes, insurance, truck registration and time involved; for the quality of the wood I offer, and the long term in what I offer and sell, is a good package alone. 

Imagine yourself doing this! Head out to the local grocery store, big box store, or better yet, let's look at the gas pumps. Go inside and tell them you will give them  $75.00 for $100.00 worth of gas. On the other hand; roll the dice and tell the local big grocery store (cannot name names) that you are prepared to give them $75.00 for that $100.00 of fresh meat for your BBQ----or the Big Box store $150.00 for that $250.00 flat screen TV. Just how far do you think you would get? Do you see the point? Why should it be different for anyone doing an honest and true wood business? You know what the other stores will say. Should the wood producer, if he is doing you right by telling you the truth and being honest with you, be put through the grist mill? If he isn't fair and doesn't know his product; in this case being wood, I do suggest he is fair game. Not all of us are like that. On the other hand----you have to be both judge and jury. To do that, you best be learning about wood and the procedures involved.

I am based just outside of New Minas. This will only relate to areas considered to be in the mid-range of 75 miles to 100 from New Minas; while also taking in areas of Annapolis, Bridgewater, Halifax/Dartmouth, Eastern Passage, Maitland, some distances further, and all in between areas. I have made arrangements on distances further, and that option is still a feasable one. Regardless of where you live, it is important for you to give me complete and easy instructions to your home by the easiest route possible. Should you live outside of an area that I think would be unfair to you for delivery verses total wood cost, I will be honest with you and suggest someone more local or closer. And if I can help you find a producer who I think will treat you right, I will endeavour to assist you. 

Yard Cutting and Pick-up.
I have chosen to distance myself from this due to an incident this summer. If you are coming here for wood, please make sure you DO HAVE ample equipment to transport. I will no longer bend the rules in assisting someone else to take chances on picking up wood here with inadequate equipment. In other wards, your transportation unit must be able to measure and cube to legally hold and transport one, two, three or a four cord truck, and/or, trailer load. I do reserve the option to measure and determine just how much your unit can legally hold and transport before loading you. Otherwise; I will be contributing to you bending, and/ or, breaking the law. That in itself would cause me concern, since I am expected to do it legally. If you get caught trying to do the impossible; whether legal or not, once you leave this yard the responsibility of what you are doing is totally yours.

On Special Requests:  I have gone further distances than some of the areas posted based on the amounts of wood ordered and the reasons given. All areas are based on our mileage format per cord and is the same for everyone. When I indulge inside of the direct CITY AREAS of Halifax and Dartmouth, there is a slight sur-charge due to the time involved, traffic, traffic lights, many streets and extra fuel consummed. All of my quotes are based on the general areas we travel, and final quotes are, and will be done by Email and direct contact on the telephone before any wood sales are contracted.

This was a 4 cord load being delivered at one 2 cord of Maple on the trailer and one 2 cord load of Black Poplar on the truck. Together as a unit they are legal and the cord count is proper. 

               


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                 CURRENT VALID EMAIL ADDRESSES:
d2b@xcountry.tv   or   frankrhynosvalleyfirewood@xcountry.tv

6. Seasoning Wood and the Process/OVERVIEW